Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FYI I am assuming you want these to fit a sedan? It will be a challenge to try and get the 370z 19"s to fit the rears as they are a 9.5 +15. Ur car will need to be massively lowered, stretched tires and also a fair bit of camber dialled in. For a coupe it will be fine.

Hah! Good luck with 10 +15. I'm running 10+43 at the rears and they are already sticking out by about 7mm with a mild drop. Not saying it can't be done but as a daily driver it ain't worth the hassle.

This is what 8.5 +0 and 9.5 +10 looks like.

http://rimtuck.com/photos.php?photo=1283452472.jpg&id=870&h=3

What you willing to pay? i have the stock V35 18s off my coupe some gutter rash from previous car owner but it is fixable i have been told. im in NSW also so you would prob have to have them shipped, has Kumho rubber on them lots of tread left.

Edited by T4NK

Hah! Good luck with 10 +15. I'm running 10+43 at the rears and they are already sticking out by about 7mm with a mild drop. Not saying it can't be done but as a daily driver it ain't worth the hassle.

This is what 8.5 +0 and 9.5 +10 looks like.

http://rimtuck.com/photos.php?photo=1283452472.jpg&id=870&h=3

Thanks.

I'm quite newbie with wheels. Had a feel 19x10+15 would be quite hard to fit in under any car especially the front!

Ok so here is pics of my wheels. you can see the gutter rash on them, I was told 2 would just need to be machined and 2 need some filler and a machine, so i went a bit over with all the pics but i want ppl to know what they are buying, i have been told that its fixable by a tyre shop and there seams to be lots of tread left on the Kumhos you can see tyre size and brand in the pics also.

post-83784-0-18502500-1311813694_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-84870700-1311813709_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-79773100-1311813730_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-07084600-1311813786_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-00136500-1311813818_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-40021400-1311813828_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-32388300-1311813840_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-69123200-1311813877_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-84681400-1311813889_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-47240100-1311813905_thumb.jpg

It wont let me edit the above post so ill add this also, im looking for something around 600-700 mark, i had a quote for the tyres for new ones and to get the same it was around 1.2k for all 4 i know the rims are damaged but they are easly repairable for around $300 so i think between 600-700 is a fair price, if i am wrong please let me know im just going off what i have seen sell in the forums before.

It wont let me edit the above post so ill add this also, im looking for something around 600-700 mark, i had a quote for the tyres for new ones and to get the same it was around 1.2k for all 4 i know the rims are damaged but they are easly repairable for around $300 so i think between 600-700 is a fair price, if i am wrong please let me know im just going off what i have seen sell in the forums before.

I think you're probabaly pretty close to the mark with your sale price :thumbsup: especially with good rubber, they have very minimal damage.. I bought a set to use on my Stagea that were more damaged than these for $350 without usable rubber.

The thing to remember with the Shadow Chrome finish, is the paint itself is over $200 per litre, and requires multiple coats. It also requires all four rims to be painted at the same time. It starts with a black base coat and is built up with the Shadow Chrome finish; getting progressively lighter with each coat. I had quotes of $250 per wheel for this finish.

You'll pay around $600 for refurbishment and a good 2pack paint job; this will stand up to anything you can throw at them.

Another way to go is powdercoat; from around $50 per wheel and you can get pearl & metallic colours (they do cost more).

Link to get an idea of what you can acheive; http://www.cravedcoatings.com/

Not trying to tread on your toes; just sharing my experience. I really wanted the Shadow Chrome, but ended up with Toyota "Tungsten" on mine; looks really nice.

Pic; post-61153-0-02144900-1311947449_thumb.jpg

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...