Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Need some help here, im 6,2-6,2 in height and not the smallest guy so my dream car was a 34 i currently have a V35 and want to get the 34. When i sit in the 34 my head is brushing the roof and my legs are touching the wheel and ebrake. Does anyone know if i am able to extend the seat rails and put a lower seat in so i can move it back further and drop a smaller wheel into the car to allow me to fit?

(If this is posted in worng spot my bad)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372088-fitting-in-a-34gtt/
Share on other sites

Buy some aftermarket super low rails, but not sure if they will fit your stock seat, you might need to change your seat too..

I would love to do this, has anyone done this? i dont want to buy the car fit the rails then not fit.

im 6-4 n weigh in at 128 kgs i got a 33 n fit in

it fine however my sister has a 33 but has a deep dish drift

steering wheel and gtr seat and it makes heaps of difference

there is heaps more room in hers than

mine and my knee clears her turbo timer which

is mounted down the bottom left under the dash which

it didnt before maybe u could look at something similar for the 34

i imagine gtr seats and a new steerin wheel would be a fair bit cheaper

than a tt kit for a v lol

Tall guys make imports look so small. My mate is 6 foot something, like a tree, he took my silvia for a spin and when he drove back in the driveway I swear my car looked like a go kart with him in it.

Cars where designed for petite little japanese peoples I guess

Tall guys make imports look so small. My mate is 6 foot something, like a tree, he took my silvia for a spin and when he drove back in the driveway I swear my car looked like a go kart with him in it.

Cars where designed for petite little japanese peoples I guess

also designed for people with small hands to work on, LOL

I took my soon to be brother in law for a spin in the 33, he's 6'7, im 5'4... and I have factory seats, I had to have the sunroof open for his head.... hit boost and the back of his head hit the sunroof :P

LMAO hahahaha man thats gold, i would have to do the same open the sun roof and stick my head out and if it rains just dont drive lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...