Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I'm looking to get some new wheels for my series 2 c34 once my tax comes back, but I can't decide whether to go for 18s or 19s. I like the look of 19s, but I remember reading somewhere that one of the members on here had found the ride too harsh so had switched back to 18s. Has anyone tried both and have any thoughts about which is the best way to go? I'm open to any and all ideas and suggestions. My suspension is stock at the moment but I'll probably get some BCs some time soon.

Thanks

Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/
Share on other sites

Well I've got 2 sets of 17s so I guess if its a choice between 18 or 19 I would be voting for 18in. In fact my old car looked quite good with 16in GTR rims:

My old 17in .coms (now have TE37s):

DSC02006.jpg

My old S1 with GTR rims:

SilverStagea.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5938592
Share on other sites

DSC03580.JPG

thats the 20's that were on my car before i bought it (didn't want the 20's and the seller wanted more for them, win win for me)

i think 17's or 18's look the best, offset is the thing you have to watch out for tho

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5940747
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I won't be looking at 20's. I was leaning towards 19's, but am now leaning back towards 18's. Offsets is something I am keeping an eye on.

I still want to steal that front carbon bit off yours Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5940935
Share on other sites

i just used that pic to show what big wheels look like on a c34

with offset, 17's look good plus tyres are cheap (235/45/r17's are about $120+ and will fit on up to a 9" rim well)

i'm thinking about getting some lenso d1r's, probably the 17x9 or 18x9

if my carbon big goes missing, i know which stagea to check!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5940974
Share on other sites

I've got 17's at the moment (stock rims) but I'm thinking I want to go a bit bigger. I think I'll stick with 18x9's if I can find something I like.

The lenso's look good, but I want 6 or 7 spokes not 5. Go 18x9!

If your carbon bit goes missing I'll blame Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5940982
Share on other sites

I've got 17's at the moment (stock rims) but I'm thinking I want to go a bit bigger. I think I'll stick with 18x9's if I can find something I like.

The lenso's look good, but I want 6 or 7 spokes not 5. Go 18x9!

If your carbon bit goes missing I'll blame Matt

yeah 18x9 +15ish would be sweet i reckon

for something that looks jap without the cost look at the rota wheels

http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewWheels.htm

they sell all the good nissan sizes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5941412
Share on other sites

yeah 18x9 +15ish would be sweet i reckon

for something that looks jap without the cost look at the rota wheels

http://www.option1ga...u/NewWheels.htm

they sell all the good nissan sizes

I've had a look at the Rota wheels a few times (and just had another look then) but have never really found anything that really jumped out at me, and if there is something I like it's never in the right size. Maybe I'm just fussy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5941669
Share on other sites

I've had a look at the Rota wheels a few times (and just had another look then) but have never really found anything that really jumped out at me, and if there is something I like it's never in the right size. Maybe I'm just fussy.

i like the gtr-d's but thats about it really, but thats just me

so hard to buy wheels, so many options but nothing thats perfect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5941833
Share on other sites

I'm thinking Enkei RPF1s from Street to Track, then I just need to sort tyres.

I'll still be keeping an eye out for the next little while, won't be making a decision until I get my tax back and have some money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5942730
Share on other sites

nice, i think its about $100 to get 4 tyres shipped from option1garage down to tas so you could get a full set for federal 595-ss's for about $900

Cool, I'll have to get in touch with them as well. Then try and find a tyre place who will fit and balance them despite me not buying anything from them.....

Trying to decide which colour would be best if I go with the RPF1s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5944795
Share on other sites

black wheels on white cars looks sexy as

you could try places down here for tyres too, just use that price as a benchmark of cost (most places won't tell you about cheaper tyres unless you ask, the 595ss's are supposed to be decent but still cheap but can be a bit loud apparently, i've never had any but my 31 will probably get a pair for the rear when i go back to qld next)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5944960
Share on other sites

cool, thanks Mark, I didn't think tyre places would be keen.

Tom - i do like black wheels on white cars, but sometimes having the rpf1's in black makes them look a bit small. I'm thinking the SBC colour http://www.enkei.com/rpf1.html#

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372365-18s-vs-19s/#findComment-5946148
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...