Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

im starting this thread because i dont want to continue to fill other threads with questions.

i have a rb25 with a plazmaman plenum running stock hiflows (740cc) and e85

i want to add top feed injectors (1000cc), but i am finding it difficult to find a supplier to have the confidence to sell me injectors/rail that will fit under it.

so my question is to those playing at home, who has top feeds that fit under a plazmaman? what fuel rail?

if i cant find anything, am i better to go a greddy plenum? if so ill sell my plazmaman off.

OR should i just go a ITB setup?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372893-plenumsinjectorsadaptors/
Share on other sites

yeh i called tuff car parts, they said the bosch id1000 units are a 3/4 injector. he said the only thing is with there unit you would need to mod the rail/mounts as they normally come with a height adaptor. ideally i would just like to go to one shop, order what i need and install.

should have to mess around with modifying a rail..

think ill just flog this plenum off and get a greddy..

Chatted further with a Plazaman Plenum distributer, they recommend high flow injectors for non neo head rb25det. Seems like quite a limitation for this Plenum.Time for a greddy, gtr, or hypertune.

Edited by WHITE gtt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...