Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i'll be getting it for PS3.:thumbsup:

Anybody else play 40k? as in the real game?

Ill be getting it for PC

And i play 40k too, i have a Necron army and an Imperial Guard army.

Though i only use my Guards as Necrons suck in the current rules.

i'll be getting it for PS3.:thumbsup:

Anybody else play 40k? as in the real game?

I used to, from 1993 through to about 2004. Now I just paint them from time to time when I get bored!

Bought this game yesterday afternoon, loving it! Have not been able to get online yet. It wont let me connect to a game. Will have to investigate why when I get some time tonight.

Used to play it in the late 1990's

Wouldnt mind playing it again (and fixing up my miniatures which need it badly) but go near a games workshop shop and there's just too many kids - fu(k that

Used to play it in the late 1990's

Wouldnt mind playing it again (and fixing up my miniatures which need it badly) but go near a games workshop shop and there's just too many kids - fu(k that

And it always smells bad

And it always smells bad

Any time i go into the store one of the staff members always manages to corner me and lock me into a conversation about 40k for some stupid reason, then because i am too polite i go along till i can find an ethical way to bail which is at least 20 mins later.

Not much need to go there these days with online stores offering far better prices on 40k models.

Any time i go into the store one of the staff members always manages to corner me and lock me into a conversation about 40k for some stupid reason, then because i am too polite i go along till i can find an ethical way to bail which is at least 20 mins later.

Not much need to go there these days with online stores offering far better prices on 40k models.

I went there to get a book the other week and it was the same thing, stuck for f**king ages for no good reason, I think it is store policy to act like the customers best friend....because really a lot of their customers could probably do with a new best friend lol :P

what website to you use for purchasing models Chappy??

I used to play then stopped as all my friends left my school who played with me,

now i just play the PC games given the stupidly expensive price of the models nowadays:( i remember $35 would get you a space marine squad, now it barely gets you a blister pack

what website to you use for purchasing models Chappy??

I used to play then stopped as all my friends left my school who played with me,

now i just play the PC games given the stupidly expensive price of the models nowadays:( i remember $35 would get you a space marine squad, now it barely gets you a blister pack

Maelstromgames.co.uk used to be a great place to buy from, till GW changed the terms and conditions that restricted UK sellers from selling to people outside the UK. If you know a good forwarder though you can get away with it.

There are some good sellers on Ebay too

wizardsgames (user) or RED DRAGON GAMES (store)

abadd0n (user) or Abaddon's Warchest (store)

It can also be cheaper to buy straight from the GW site in the USA and send them to a freight forwarder.

oh ok cheers mate,

I did notice how cheap stuff was on ebay,

does it appear to you that some people must be making duplications of some sprues on ebay??

as who knows where a person would get 50 sprues of the torso of spacemarines etc etc haha...

Pity we get ripped off so bad in australia for stuff like this :(

oh ok cheers mate,

I did notice how cheap stuff was on ebay,

does it appear to you that some people must be making duplications of some sprues on ebay??

as who knows where a person would get 50 sprues of the torso of spacemarines etc etc haha...

Pity we get ripped off so bad in australia for stuff like this :(

They buy bulk battleforce packs then split them up and sell them individually.

DL the demo for ps3 on the weekend, how brutal is it!!!

awesome

i buy all my miniatures from Black Cultist. 25% off all GW products and free delivery in the ACT.

Im currently building Space wolves and IG armies. also have Tau and Ork. i used to play from mid nineties to mid 2000s but now just paint/model in my spare time.

The "stun and execute" thing? fkn awesome. and SO violent!

I like the one on the nobs where you pin thier foot to the ground with the power axe and pull thier jaw off! lol

This game almost made me like Ultrasmurfs!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...