Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gUYS,

The steering box in my DR doesnt feel right.

Wen driving, the steering wheel doesnt self centre after turning a corner.

Im not sure if its a 'lack or castor' thing or my box is overly adjusted.

It feels nice when driving, no tight spots or weird noises, just doesnt self centre...

Also,

Wheel tub clearance issues.

Anyone have this on a lowered R30?

Im rubbing everywhere (wheel specs are 15x8 -9, to clear my s14 brakes)

I want to stay using these wheel, so looking forward to seeing/ reading about some idea's to solve the problem.

Thats about it,

Cheers,

Dan

Not self centering is often an over adjusted steering box issue. Is there any play in the wheel when stationary?

Wheels?? I have 16 x 7 on front at +38 & 16 x 8 on rear also at +38 with zero scrubbing, so a -9 offset might just be the problem, as stock wheel offset was about +25.

Cheers, D

Dennis,

Will it have play when stationary with a over adj box, or just when the box is adj properly (pending box condition and age of course)

Im going to work on it tommorow (having cars that dont live at your ouse is shit) so ill check the box and get back to this thread.

Cheers,

im having the same front clearence isues too!, heres wat im doin

post-48133-0-15166500-1312788146_thumb.jpg

post-48133-0-09941200-1312788165_thumb.jpg

fairly extreme i no, but got to the point were wheels would bind up, no amount of hammering could fix it.

wheels with still hit up top. just couldnt bring myself to fully tub it!

well worth it cos i will be able run more castor and more lock!

heres sum insperation from nigel!

post-48133-0-70455700-1312788400_thumb.jpg

hmmm yeah Im not that keen haha.

Damn 15" wheels and having to lower it so it looks half decent.

How do all the crazy low jap dr30's get away with it?

Ydr030,

what size wheels you got and how low is your r30?

yea i get wat u saying, some off them got kits so look heaps lower than they are,

17x9s not sure of offset, cos of new outer dish.

cars low as front subframe is like 50-60mm off the deck, lol

rears are 17x9.5 -10.

Edited by ydr030

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...