Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my GTR very happy with it, however now i have 2 problem,

1. Does anyone know what the HICAS light for? This is because i was driving my GTR on the freeway and suddenly the HICAS light just came out but i dont fell much different. The light just stay there all the way until i restart my car again. It came out a few time but i can find much information about it.

2. Does anyone have any user manual or installation manaul for GRID tourge control. I have one of those unit but i still cant figure out how it actual work. This is because when i turn on the GRID and let say i put 20% force to my front.

Inteory the 4WD light on the dash suppose to come up but for me it does not. I need to turn off and on the control unit a few time then only the light comes out. Does anyone have this same problem,i guess the previous owner have install it worngly but i am still not sure.

Second onece i play with the GRID unit. I can fell that my brake is automatic engage by itself if i turn my stering or wheel to end of one way,let say i turn all the way to right. The brake will engage by itself and the wheel seen to be lock about 10% of presure as i can fell it.

Can anyone out there help me pls......i been looking around for information but i cant find much.

Thanks

Calvin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37435-gtr-problem-pls-help-mepls/
Share on other sites

Hey calvintys...i had a hicas problem once...same car as you, but when the hicas lighted up the car would then swerve left or right...not sure what was going on there but brought it to my mechanic n they fixed it...cost quite a bit though...said was some control arm thing.

have a look on the net...there are plenty of places which teach you to put the car into diagnostics which will then flash hicas error codes if you have any errors with the system.

hmm...not sure on that GRID thing. i understand that the 4wd light will only come on if there is a problem with it, but i think if your torque split controller is installed properly then the system shouldn't think there's an error, hence no light??

also, the attessa system is linked with the abs system which could indicate your torque controller is not set up properly, thus causing the brakes to bite??

Hicas, dunno, get a mechanic who knows what there doing and has the fault codes to check it for you.

Grid controller is working fine, if the light comes ON then there is a problem, not when it's off.

If you have it activated and turn a corner slowly, it is binding up the clutch packs in the centre diff ( ATTESSA) cos the pressure is still being applied to them by the controller.

What is then happening is it is trying to turn the front and rear diffs at the same rate when in actual fact there is supposed to be a difference.

If you know someone with a proper 4wd( ie. patrol, landcruiser ) get them to put it in 4wd and then turn slowly around a corner. You will hear the wheels skipping as the tyres should be rolling at a different rate due to the different arcs they are travelling but the locking of the diff won't allow it.

That is what you are doing to your GTR by doing that with the controller. There should be an auto setting which disengages it automatically ( which is why it's called auto) once you get below 15-20KMH.

Cheers

Ken

rb26dett And Gtrken >>> Thanks alot for the information, now i am far better before, fell that my knowledge have increase. Once again thanks for the help as i appreciate both information alot. :(

As for the split controller i am using GRID T.S DANSER.. if anyone have any information on it will be appreciate.

uuuhhmm, if the steering wheel has been removed, replaced or even tampered with and is slightly off centre, doesn't that also cause the hicas to light up??

Yeah, that's what I was going to suggest...

I replaced the steering wheel on one of my old skylines and the hicas light would come on randomly above 80km/h and stay on until I turned the car off.

I also used the wrong boss kit and the sensor didn't line up correctly, so that might have been the problem too...

Just to also agree with Mesh and Merl - if your car has an aftermarket wheel and a non-HICAS boss kit fitted (or as Mesh said, had this combo sometime prior) - then after about 15 minutes of straight driving - ie: no steering input - the HICAS system thinks something is wrong and turns on the warning light. It thinks the car has gone to sleep.

Scared the bejeezus out of me the first time (was between Tarcutta and Gundagai - ain't no performance workshops out there) but is nothing to worry about :(

J

Thanks guy for the information but the sad case is i dont have an after market wheel, as i am using stock standard nissan wheel with air bag. Hope that next week when i take my car to check the problem is not serious. Thanks everyone whom here to help.... this will keep my skyline spirit increase.... Skyline forever or RB26DET

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest INASNT
What if the HICAS light is always on?

As in my case.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...3241#post783241

If it always stays on and there isent a problem, then the cheapest way to fix it is to just take the bulb out from behind it and u wont see it light up anymore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...