Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have spent the past two hours trying to reinstall my HID Globes in the 370 and cannot figure out what i am doing wrong.

The compliance workshop sent me the globes as well as this plug and brass clip.

post-84258-0-08327300-1313915108_thumb.jpg

post-84258-0-70044200-1313915179_thumb.jpg

I dont know what the brass clip is for???

Below is a picture of the two wires that the new globe had been wired up to. They wired up red and black wires to the green and grey ones so I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that they had cut the plug, shown above, off from here. I reconnected the plug and plugged it into the Ballast seen at the back.

post-84258-0-06155300-1313915441_thumb.jpg

The Red and Black wires that they had connected to the green and grey ran though a hole that they drilled and then one connected to the back of the globe and the other to the top of the bracket, as seen below.

post-84258-0-93637600-1313915331_thumb.jpg

I found the Ignitor tucked into the headlight, pulled it out and plugged the HID globe in. Then mounted it into the bracket and tested it but get nothing.

post-84258-0-29039000-1313915888_thumb.jpg

Please let me know what may be doing wrong or any obvious reason why this isnt working. It all seemed very simple as I was doing it so I am suprised that it hasnt worked? (Keeping in mind that I am an idiot)

I hate to admit defeat on such a small job but I just dont know what is wrong.

Cheers guys.

Al

Edited by Alkatraz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374752-v36-370gt-hid-reinstall-fail/
Share on other sites

Ok so I have settled done, had dinner, watched some tv and it appears that its not something that I have done wrong.

I followed the same procedure on the other side and it worked no problem. It is a fiddly little job and I didnt use the brass clip for anything.....?

So I guess that something was broken on the first side when it was complied. Any suggestions on what would normally break the easiest? its not the globe because i tested them both and neither worked on that side, it must either be the ballast connections or the ignitor somehow.

Great way to spend an afternoon......................NOT

  • 2 years later...

Sorry for resurrecting a thread that died 2 years ago but I figured I'd chime in after having finally done my headlights today.

The brass clip holds the wire clip onto the bulb fixture and is affixed with that one coarse thread screw at the top of the bulb fixture. This, in turn, give you a hinge for the clip so that you don't lose it whenever you need to change the bulb. The brass clip has the two leaves pointed back towards the rear of the vehicle, as they don't have sufficient separation to sit over the notch/locator that the bulb slots onto.

The one thing you'll need to be careful of is the clip hasn't been bent from its factory setting. The top end of my clips was bent forward somewhat and that resulted in the connector not having any room to twist and lock due to the protruding wire clip up top. Straightening the top end of the clip by a few millimetres before affixing it in place with the brass clip does the trick. Once all that is assembled, you slot the bulb in, swing the clip over and clip it into place. Then you can plug in the connector onto the bulb and twist it to lock in place.

For what it's worth, I ripped out the additional wire the compliance shop wired in through the hole that he drilled and reterminated the ballast's 12VDC connector onto that as the factory wire was shortened from the work performed by the compliance shop. It's important to make sure you reseal any holes of that nature with silicone sealant so that no moisture gets into the housing, otherwise your electronics won't survive for as long as they should.

Sorry I didn't take any photos but I was in a rush to just get it done. If anyone has any questions, you're welcome to ask.

As a key reference, use this YouTube video (

) which explains it better than even the Nico Club forums, who suggest removing the screw after unlocking the HID bulb's connector - that's simply unnecessary and causes more grief than it's worth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...