Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,i have a nissan skyline r33 1993 model and it idles at 2000rpm wen i first start it in the morning and then after about 15min it would drop down to about 1400/1500 rpm it does have a different bigger penum and throttle body on it as thats how i bought the car.

When it warms up and i go around for a drive it slightly drops to 1300/1400 rpm and then i go home and adjuust the idle screw it does nothing till i rev it and the it drops to 900/1000 rpm.

I would then go for a drive again and it would jump up again after 5min and if it stays at that idle under 1000rpm it would stall or feel like a cut out till it hits over 1200rpm again.

I have taken it to a mechanic but the best they could do is have it idle at 1300rpm and they thought out all my vacume leaks and fuel and tuned and it still does it.

Any help on this would be great.

post-87351-0-79286100-1314161967_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375092-r33-idle/
Share on other sites

Its hurting my head not knowing whats wrong with it.

ive fixed all the vac leaks changed the pugs and the coilpacks are fine, so that leaves me with afm and iac valve.

Any ideas how i go about cleaning the afm its a z32? and where the iac valve is on this setup or are they located all the same?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375092-r33-idle/#findComment-5982854
Share on other sites

Which "idle screw" did you adjust? DO NOT adjust the throttle stop screw (on the side of the TB). You adjust the screw in the IAC (with the electrical plug disconnected).

Have you checked base timing?

What ECU is it running?

The AFM shouldn't need specific cleaning - on shutdown, the ECU heats the AFM hot-wire to burn any crap off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375092-r33-idle/#findComment-5983732
Share on other sites

yeah didnt adjust the throttle one i just adjusted the one on the aac thats it but didnt really need to adjust as when it warmed up it went and stayed on 900rpm...you mean i should adjust it with the plug on the aac off?

Do i do it when its warm or cold? cause when i cleaned the aac it was sitting at 2000rpm then it dropped down.

How do i go about when its cold not to be at 2000rpm and to be a lil bit lower then that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375092-r33-idle/#findComment-5984756
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...