Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have quite abit here, and more that I haven't mentioned,

I had an R33 and an S14, and wrecked both so just ask for parts if not listed.

But now it All has to go!

*URAS WHEELS JDM (Bronze)

18x9 +30 offset, fits perfect to the guards, small stone rash.

RRP $2400, selling for $1200 NEG.

post-63394-0-55449700-1314667024_thumb.jpg

- Wrecking R33 Skyline PARTs

*Rb25det done 120xxx

And has had

NO modifications

( not even pod filter ) $1200 NEG!!!

I did a compression test and all cylinders came out good.

*R33 S2 Side skirts $120 for both.

*RB25DE Cams $70.

*RB25 A/C Radiator $30.

*Rb25det Auto gearbox

Drove fine $150

*R33 Tail lights

(tiny chip where indicator is) $60 PAIR or $40 EACH comes with center garnish.

post-63394-0-47995500-1314667354_thumb.jpg

*White Rear bar x 2 ( STD ) .. $50

*R33 Front Fenders $65 for right.

$55 for Left,there is a chip where headlight is.

Price drop have both for $90.

*Drivers side door skin

( GOOD NICK s2) $20 Pick up Only.

*Boot carpet $20

*OEM Clutch ( looks like there

is alot left ) WILL DO FOR only $50.

*RB25DET Intake Manifold, ACC Valve inc $30.

*RB25DET Throttle body x 2 $20 ea.

*Manual Diff only done 81xxx km's minimul play $90

- S14 Series 2 Parts.

*Hand Brake Set up

Lever plus cables $80

*Brake booster and master

cylinder $80

*Right hand door excluding

switch has some paint fade $80

*Drivers door switch $30

post-63394-0-94851800-1314667635_thumb.jpg

*Passenger door switch $30.

post-63394-0-64620400-1314667703_thumb.jpg

*Series 2 boot + wing

paint has faded $40

*Glove box ( good nick ) $25

*Good nick Stock AFM $35

post-63394-0-61524000-1314667762_thumb.jpg

*Washer bottle ( no cracks ) $25

*Mirrors Left And Right

tiny bit of paint fade

Black base red mirror $40 per side

post-63394-0-73262100-1314667904_thumb.jpg

*S14 Rear brake calipers $40.

*Stock Front bar Blinkers (Good nick) $30.

post-63394-0-27699000-1314668005_thumb.jpg

- S13/180sx Parts.

*Drivers Seat in ok condition(sr)$10

*180sx Stock Rear bar (black) $20

*180sx Stock ca front bar( Grey ) $20

*Willing to do swaps for r32 GTR passenger / rear seats.

Also have an Intercooler (Monza) $70. Straight through style!!!

post-63394-0-50624900-1314668258_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-46958700-1314668167_thumb.jpg

That's all I can think of right now,

I have alot of photos so if you want to ask any questions or see anything just ask.

Email: [email protected]

Mobile: 0430106414

Located in South Eastern suburbs of Melbourne.

from the s14, do you have the center fascia as outlined below ?

would like to have all the components i.e vents/climate control and buttons

PM if you've got it

fascia.jpg

Nah sorry man, don't have any of that anymore.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...