Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lets start off:

1999 JDM Spec R Silvia

Factory turbo

Factory manual

Colour: Silver (Black bonnet)

KM:93000

REG: DEC 2011

RWC: YES

Mods:

Exterior

Bodykit

Eyelids

De-Badged

R34 GTT Wheels, 4 brand new tires

Interior

Air Freshener :P

Japanese Pioneer Stereo ( Head unit, AMP and 6” speakers all round )

Floor Mats

Engine

Stock

3” Turbo back exhaust

Suspension + handling

Cusco coil over’s

Front strut brace

Comes with:

Front mount intercooler and piping

Pod Filer

Carbon fiber radiator shield diffuser.

My Girlfriends car is up for sale,

in the past year and a half of ownership she has driven it a handful of times due to being turbo and on her p’s and it is pointless for her to have, so it is up for sale. She got Defected and EPA. In January where we got all the stock items incept for the exhaust to Clear the EPA we are Currently clearing the defect and it went in for RWC on Thursday the items on this list where put white globes back in and fit new rear brakes and clean head lights ( water vapor ).. These will be fixed as soon as the mechanic comes back from holidays. as stated this is my GF car I have driven it a handful of times and got yelled out if I ever put the foot down so it has not been trashed at all and it is well looked after Just done a oil/filter change, it is very clean and no one has smoked in the car. Would make any new buyer happy

PLATES DO NOT COME WITH THE CAR

Price

$20,000ono

Contact

Myself Rob either via PM or 0467543255

IMG_0313.JPG

IMG_0315.jpg

IMG_0317.jpg

IMG_0318.jpg

IMG_0320.jpg

IMG_0323.jpg

IMG_0324.jpg

IMG_0326.jpg

IMG_0328.jpg

IMG_0331.jpg

Edited by HIZOKU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376092-1999-s15-silvia-spec-r/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...