Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh i didnt include shipping from syd to melb. im going ahead with the transaction hope fitment isnt to bad. i know it will need a bit (the main reason im doing the front bar is it sits higher than standard vspec bar so i can lower it more hehe) i might put up some pics :)

cheers

Yeah, pics would be good when the Front Bar arrives :)

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm sorry for this stupid question but whats the difference between stock R34 front bumper and ZTune? Google shows that they look identical.

pic0001.jpg

Stock R34 GTR.

pic0001.jpg

Nismo R34 GTR.

In built bonnet lip spoiler on top of the grill.

Front grill sides are more angular in shape for more aggressive look.

There are 2 vents, one on the side of the front bar.

2 extra vents next to the indicators.

The vent under the indicator protrudes out for more of an aggressive look.

pic0001.jpg

Nismo Z-Tune.

Similar to the Nismo front bar, but vents next to the indicator have been removed.

The vents under the indicator have been revised, as it protrudes out further joining on to the lower vent making it a 1 peice.

^ ^

Thanks, bud. I've read the advertisements but how much difference does the Ztune bumper make? Honestly, I feel that the stock bumper with a few fabricated sheets (to channel the air) would be as good and whole lot cheaper. The Ztune hood is CF and that's fine but I prefer the hood with the NACA ducts. Probably the only Ztune parts I would buy are the fenders. As a matter of fact, my setup would almost be like that white 34-R above minus the Ztune bumper.

^ ^

Thanks, bud. I've read the advertisements but how much difference does the Ztune bumper make? Honestly, I feel that the stock bumper with a few fabricated sheets (to channel the air) would be as good and whole lot cheaper. The Ztune hood is CF and that's fine but I prefer the hood with the NACA ducts. Probably the only Ztune parts I would buy are the fenders. As a matter of fact, my setup would almost be like that white 34-R above minus the Ztune bumper.

:thumbsup:

All, good and personal preference I guess...

The Nismo Z-Tune website says it effectively guides air to the engine and brakes, which what the stock and Nismo front bars do as well.

So it's more just for looks, I think.

Cosmetically the Z-Tune just looks more aggressive.

^ ^

Thanks, bud. I've read the advertisements but how much difference does the Ztune bumper make? Honestly, I feel that the stock bumper with a few fabricated sheets (to channel the air) would be as good and wh

ole lot

cheaper. The Ztune hood is CF and that's fine but I prefer the hood with the NACA ducts. Probably the only Ztune parts I would buy are the fenders. As a matter of fact, my setup would almost be like that white 34-R above minus the Ztune bumper.

are you serious your worrying about air channeling on a different front bar? -.-

are you serious your worrying about air channeling on a different front bar? -.-

I can imagine tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars was spent by Nissan paying it's engineers and doing wind tunnel tests on these front bars, so why wouldn't you use that information when choosing a front bumper? rolleyes.gif

Edited by PewPew

yeh bro a fully sick custom fibreglass front bar wont be to exact spec so just enjoy and get what you want. were not f1 drivers here and guarnteed it wont make a difference on the street

besides the point im still looking for a kit

help anyone?

yeh i didnt include shipping from syd to melb. im going ahead with the transaction hope fitment isnt to bad. i know it will need a bit (the main reason im doing the front bar is it sits higher than standard vspec bar so i can lower it more hehe) i might put up some pics :)

cheers

So you got the front bar, but still looking for side skirts and rear pods?

Try Jesse Streeter:

http://jessestreeter.com/

http://www.skylinesa...jesse-streeter/

Aussie fella living in Japan sourcing parts.

They say he's good, easy to deal with and fast service.

A++++ Great seller, would definitely use again

are you serious your worrying about air channeling on a different front bar? -.-

Sorry, didn't notice your question.... I didn't get an email notification.

Actually, I've since decided to get the Z bumper. As a matter of fact, I'll grab the whole Z-tune set minus the sideskirts. I'm even looking at a CF trunk and spoiler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...