Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my current wheel setup.

Wheels & tires were purchased brand new and have been on the car for 6 weeks / 1200km.

Wheels: 4 x Rays Engineering TE37SL

Size: 19x9.5

Specs: 5x114.3 PCD, +22 offset

Others: Red volk racing stickers and red valve installed

Condition: Excellent, not a scratch or mark on them.

Tires: 4 x Nitto NT555

Size: 235/35/19

Condition: All 4 have excellent tread ~ 90%. 2 have marking on the sidewall where they rubbed on my inner guard when first installed. They are not a safety issue, confirmed with tire shop, but visually noticed.

Wheels and tires cost me $4,600 in total 2-3 months ago. Still have warranty on wheels and tires and can pass on to new buyer.

Price: $4,000 firm so you are virtually getting 2 tires for free and don't have to wait for the wheels to come in from Japan.

Contact: PM or SMS/Call 0450 906 351.

Location: Sydney West but can meet buyer anywhere in Sydney.

Pics when fitted to car:

img86923.jpg

img8674l.jpg

img86912.jpg

img86606.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376683-rays-engineering-te37sl/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...