Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks F-Con V Ecu To Suit Rb25Det


Recommended Posts

hks_fconv_pkg_v31_ecr33_01_tn.jpg

Up for grabs is an obscure (but 100% functional) piece of kit.

Includes:

* HKS F-CON V gold v3.1 ECU. (major software version differences are superficial minor updates that 99.9% of tunes dont use anyway)

* Custom-made F-CONV-to-ECR33 harness, with 2 optional switch outputs used (fuel pump relay, NVCS / cam shaft switch / solenoid)

* 3 bar (43 psi boost) MAP sensor, and IAT sensor, together with sensor harness.

* 100% english software, with hardware dongle and serial comms cable.

* Support from me, so I won't leave you in the lurch after the sale.

Features:

* 32x32 fuel / ignition maps.

* integrated self-learning target AFR map.

* more tuning tables than your Apexi PowerFC.

* ignition cut.

* double-spark (this is not a well-known feature of the HKS ECUs)

* switchable maps, so you can switch between E85 and PULP.

For more feature details, check out: http://1jzmerc.com/h...-con-v-pro-gold

I'm selling it as I bought the ECU as an extra - I have more than one - for testing purposes, and to demystify anything and everything about HKS ECUs and their variants.

It is 100% functional and confirmed working and tested on an RB25DET.

It can also work on an RB20DET or RB26DETT with minor harness / software modifications. a few more wires on the RB26, and different software settings (engine volume, injector flow rate) for AFM, or different injector pulse width for MAP tables.

The only other thing you need to do is to wire the fuel pump into full speed mode.

I will also provide _confirmed_ working maps that can either be used for RB25 AFM or 3 bar MAP sensor.

It will only need a quick 1 hour tune on the dyno to refine it to your engine / turbo / injectors / cams. That's how long it took to tune (+1 hour for setup) with the 1JZ by a tuner who has never touched a 1JZ, and never tuned a HKS ECU before.

Yes I have a 1JZ, and yes I did have an RB25 in the merc (that's another story in itself). but now it lives in the R32.

$1300 for the lot.

or $1150 without MAP + IAT sensor + sensor harness.

Photos (click for larger):

hks_fconv_pkg_v31_ecr33_01_tn.jpg

hks_fconv_pkg_v31_ecr33_02_tn.jpg

hks_fconv_pkg_v31_ecr33_03_tn.jpg

Edited by _bk_
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 years later...

I need help. You have more experience and I think you could help me. I made a wiring for a fcon with Rb25det engine without the oem ecu on the page (http://1jzmerc.com/hks-faq/hardware/f-con-v-pro-gold).
You indicate in pins 17 and 19 additional commands are needed. My question is what extra should I connect on these two commands because I have given the commands 180 degrees and 10 degrees from the cas but I have no operation result.
(Cam/Crank sensor require external pull-up resistors as the sensor is optically driven).
Thank you 

Edited by Kbill
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
×
×
  • Create New...