Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I was thinking we should have a meetup soon, just for fun.

Just a little meet and greet followed by a cruise.

I was thinking meeting up at the top most south westerly car park at kingston town (woolies) at around 8:30pm to then cruise off to town the fun way. TBA on the night. Prolly kick off by 9pm, I don't want to loiter to long, if spinning yarns be the main priority then maybe we best retire to the pub?

If you type -42.980806, 147.302177 into google maps; the green marker is where we'll be meeting up, not the red A.

See you there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377005-south-sunday-night-meetup/
Share on other sites

The R33 would be there for sure if I wasn't pulling the front off my engine on Sunday, not sure if I'll have all the parts required and get it back together in time or not.

Either way, I'll try to make it in the trusty old ute if the skyline can't make it. Good to have a chat with a bunch of car enthusiasts.

Day would be better and would be more fun and less chance of being harassed by the popo we could do the southern loop then finish up back in kingston at the beech for a couple of beers after???

Agree !! Sunday day cruise would be sweet.. Providing its a nice day..

yeah OK lets to that then.

Meet up at that same spot at like 2pm. Then we'll cruise on down south through cygnet and back up through Kettering then go somewhere for a beer and some yarns.

Make sure you fill up before the cruise, I don't want to stop in huonville for peddy :P

Edit: providing the weather be fine :) If it's raining we can just go play forza at my house :P

Edited by zoidbergmerc
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...