Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

seeking expressions of interest

D1 Garage are looking like getting Signal Japan's top tuner out here to perform their magic, they will be bringing all the laptop software for Japanese ECUS.

It wont be cheap, expect to pay between $1000 and $1500 for a full tune - not just power, but a full map from idle.

Whilst this isnt cheap, it is quite good value for a japanese tuning guru to come over and get the best possible safe performance from your car.

Numbers available, currently need 5 cars to make it worth while for the tuner to come out - air fairs hotel accomodation etc.

currently 3 spots are pretty much spoken for

Anyway guys, please put the word out, I would really love to see what these guys can do with my car - this is pretty close to a once in a lifetime opportunity.

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maxx, get a loan (I think I may have to :))

Slyr33, absolutely, power fc pro (full excel softwar), HKS fcon Pro V, e-manage every japanese ecu.

N/A®, James told me it was their head tuner. I will try and find out the name.

They will also be bringing Bai back out again, he is not only a Signal D1 driver, but also a mechanic for them too.

maybe n/a can crack 100 4wkws with a decent tune. lets go ken, then get pizza :D

which dyno would be used steve?

killa reh...

Steve, when would this happen and as asked, which dyno would it probably be done on?

N/A, not sure, I would expect in the next couple of months. I will find out more exact details. I am assuming that the numbers (at least 5) would have to be firm before getting him out.

Martin, why would you get one of Japans top tuners to tune a commodore? Just go and see Mr Keen at Turbo Tune if you need some hints:):D

EDIT: have you actually ever seen any commodores in Japan?

Because its in a Japanese car, that the guy has many many years of experience with.

Plus, at the end of the day, if the guy is Signal's top tuner, a population of nearly 10 times that in australia, and a many many years of playing with Japanese cars - I think you would be getting a very, very good tune.

Arguably they do after all understand their car's their engines, the limitations and how to get relaible power, optimum response, and street driveability much better than anyone who has been playing with them occasionally for the last couple of years. Japanese cars are their bread and butter, not a sideline.

Bai managed to tune Jame's car via phone to this guy, and when richard checked it he was amazed that this was the first time he has seen a full tune, with no correction in the AFM, everything was safe and optimised, without seeing a dyno. They know their shit with jap cars. James said the tune was better (more responsive and better top end) with 1.2bar than it was with its previous tune at 1.4 bar when he destroyed the engine.

If you are talking holdens, get an aussie to do it. If you are talking Japanese cars, get a Japanese to do it - and if that guy tunes japanese cars for a living at the highest competative level in japan, you can be assured you wont get a better tune regardless of the management being used.

but hey, each to their own.

Martin,

Would be an interesting article for HPI if someone here ie: Simon or yourself finalised a tune and then have the Signal guys retune it. Would end all the hype and queries....

Are the Japs really good at their stuff.

They see modified cars like Ultra Tune see's commodores.... So my guess, yes...

Nice call N/A. Way too many demi gods involved in the 'smoke and mirrors trickery' that is the import tuning scene for me! I am an interested observer of the scene though, watching how 'a tune' has become yet another bolt on accessory for a car. Yeah, got neons, turbo, boosh valve, XYZ tune.

Lets look at some facts. Fastest OS Giken 3 litre GTR in the world - tuned and run in Adelaide, Willall Racing. Fastest WRX in the world, tune by TRP Sydney. CRD have some sort of world SR record too with 9.2 out of their S14 200SX. The Japanese came to learn from Gibson Motorsport in the GTR days as they were unable to tune their engines to last for anything other than short sprint races. The list goes on and on. Whats the top line Japanese tuners weapon of choice? Motec. Wheres it made? Melbourne.

All the players in the LS1 scene here in Aus used to think that the Americans were 5 years down the road on us in terms of tuning and setting up these engines. Their engine, and they had it ages before us, so it would make sense. When one of the big guys came over from the US they were blown away, couldnt believe what the top notch guys in Aus could do with the things. They actually took some training and went back to improve their own setups.

Each to their own though :D

For that sort of $$ id rather get the engine builder to put it on a engine dyno and run it in and then give it a full tune, then you know how much power you have and its alot easier to moniter everything

if you could get 20 or so people and get the cost down to 500 or so then it would be a good deal for everyone

Interesting facts..

So from all your past experience with japan tuners and tuning, would you say they are able to tune a modified car better than say Morpowa? Im talking the well know tuners, HKS, TOP SECRET etc.... high number with safe tuning etc etc....

high number with safe tuning...........I like that.

Tuning an engine for outright power is a job an average 5 year old child could be trained to undertake in the space of a couple of hours.

There is no such thing as 'safe' though. A couple of degrees out of the ignition, or some additional fuel to be 'safe' could actually be quite unsafe. None of the great aftermarket tuners I see either here or overseas uses thermocouples to measure EGT, pull engines down to have a look at the effect of mixture of valve regression etc. and see how 'safe' their 'safe' really is. Most guess. The only folks that do it properly are the race teams.

Which is why, a dirty old 5 litre pushrod V8 with a maximum comp of 10:1 and a rev limit of 7500rpm can last over 1000km of near continual full load producing over 500kw. Its all very basic thermodynamics.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...