Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just need some advice on where to have my plenum spacer installed.

I live in Sydney and I want to know how much is a reasonable price to pay to have the plenum spacer installed.

do u guys have a recommended place to do this?

also I want to buy and install headers, which one is good and how much would I be looking at?

replies would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377358-installing-light-mods/
Share on other sites

hey mate for the spacer...DIY its very easy, i did it with a mate took two nights about 4 hours but then i was cleaning a lot of stuff and checking things here and there and mucking around and taking mad breaks from taking a break....i probably take 1 hour if you know what your doing, saying that there is some tute videos on youtube that show you how to do it. to be honest i had more trouble installing grounding kit than the spacer.

As for headers iv heard that they are most expensive to power ratio for the 350 and hell expensive to install, id go cats and exhausts tbh much easier to install and costs less to do so (took 1 hour to do exhaust and1 for the cats)

thanks for the info but since I'm such a noob I don't want to risk installing the spacer myself...

as for headers and exhaust, If I don't install the headers would my exhaust still sound good??

if your changing from stock to an aftermarket exhaust then of course the noise will change, there are many aftermarket systems that sound awesome, do a little searching on this forum in the v section here there was recently a post on people naming a few

or just go to youtube and check them out...

Edited by Ezy03

Hey Paul i just put a god speed exhaust kit on my car, its a replica of the HKS kit cost me 700 deliverd from the US i made a thread about it and posted a video on FB of how it sounds if u want to take a look.

Did you have any fitment issues with your exhaust? do your tips sit flush on the rear? or is that a moot point because you have the kenstyle?

My tips arent sitting flushed, and apparently it was a massive pain to get it put on.

FB doesn't erally do the exhaust justice though.

Back on point for paul, from what I've been told, installing the headers will be the bit that costs you with the labour involved, but when it comes to light mods, generally most people go the spacer + exhaust + HFCs / Test pipes + Ztube & pod / panel filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...