Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im probably going to replace the slave and master on my 33 and just trying to research the bleeding process as have seen so many topics with people having trouble and the topic in the DIY still left me abit confused. Is there a different way to bleed it if you dont change the master and slave and just bleed as appose to when you change both? From the DIY it seemed to suggest you can just bleed from the nipple of the slave which also leads me to the question there is a nipple on the slave it self and a nipple on this little box near it and also a nipple on the master it self. So anyone got a good guide to follow?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377448-clutch-bleed-procedures-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Nipple is on the slave and there is one on the master as well

Bleed clutch same as you would your brakes. Top up your reservior with as much fluid as you can, bleed using the nipple on the master first making sure you top up the fluid as you go. Then bleed from the slave again watching you keep enough fluid in the reservior.

What little black box?.......

Are you talking about a box where the stock clutch line does a loop before heading to the master?

Can't remember as I have braided lines but if so it Probably doesn't matter so much, but if you want to bleed from there go master, black block, slave and you should be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pads for R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R non V-Spec (Sumitomo), R33 GTS-t and R34 GT-t are all interchangeable. R34 GT uses a 2x piston caliper, hence it didn't fit.
    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
×
×
  • Create New...