Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im probably going to replace the slave and master on my 33 and just trying to research the bleeding process as have seen so many topics with people having trouble and the topic in the DIY still left me abit confused. Is there a different way to bleed it if you dont change the master and slave and just bleed as appose to when you change both? From the DIY it seemed to suggest you can just bleed from the nipple of the slave which also leads me to the question there is a nipple on the slave it self and a nipple on this little box near it and also a nipple on the master it self. So anyone got a good guide to follow?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377448-clutch-bleed-procedures-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Nipple is on the slave and there is one on the master as well

Bleed clutch same as you would your brakes. Top up your reservior with as much fluid as you can, bleed using the nipple on the master first making sure you top up the fluid as you go. Then bleed from the slave again watching you keep enough fluid in the reservior.

What little black box?.......

Are you talking about a box where the stock clutch line does a loop before heading to the master?

Can't remember as I have braided lines but if so it Probably doesn't matter so much, but if you want to bleed from there go master, black block, slave and you should be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...