Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a separate board but it has a huge number of pins. It's not truly separate - it relies on a lot of the engine ECU's stuff to do it's job.

If you want tiptronic in the R32, your best bet is to get a whole Auto Neo engine and trans and put it in. It will make it better in every single way....except that it will be an auto instead of a manual, which will ruin it as far as I'm concerned.

I took great pleasure in removing the TCU board from my Neo's ECU and throwing it in the bin when we opened it up to put the Nistune board in it.

I'm only looking at it because I've got a dodgy knee and while I love a good clutch kick, it's probably not the best in the long run :P Might keep my eyes open for a Neo head and start prepping it to go on the 30 :thumbsup:

wut?

Bubba there are 2 types of bloke on this site. Those that have a skyline and those that do not. I think we have heard from several blokes in this thread that do not. thumbsup.gif

You get that consult cable up and working yet?

Bubba there are 2 types of bloke on this site. Those that have a skyline and those that do not. I think we have heard from several blokes in this thread that do not. thumbsup.gif

You get that consult cable up and working yet?

Indeed.

Yeah, we picked up a blazt cable that is doing the job :thumbsup:

i have a 1995 S1.5 R33 auto.... my car was putting out 225rwkw with a gt30 internal gated version. Ok, so now ive started to make more power, upgraded to a T65-25G, highmount 44mm ext gate running a power fc and mods to suit, my gearbox has a keas valve body, shift kitand manualised(3.5k worth of gear) it is now putting out 255rwkw on 17psi and so the fun begins. the clutches started to go on the dyno thus the low power figues, i rang around to have it rebuilt + a stall converter which im now looking at around 3.5k to do, and nobody can guarntee me that it will hold the power i chasing(350rwkw). You CANNOT beef up these boxes there is nothing available, so if your hunting 300+ at the bags, id look elsewhere for a box. im now sourcing and going to build a C4, its pointless spending big $$$ on an auto that "might not" hold out the power im after.

cheers.

Not sure if this will be of much help.

R34 non-turbo autos have a separate trans control unit to the ECU (Compared to the turbo model's all in one ECU+TCU). But in saying that you may have alot of work ahead of you if you wish to have it strengthened for higher power outputs.

The advantage is you will have tiptronic functionality.

Not sure if this will be of much help.

R34 non-turbo autos have a separate trans control unit to the ECU (Compared to the turbo model's all in one ECU+TCU). But in saying that you may have alot of work ahead of you if you wish to have it strengthened for higher power outputs.

The advantage is you will have tiptronic functionality.

r34 autos are weaker across the board i was told strictly to stay away from them, and as far as ive been told you cannot put an r34 auto into an r33

r34 autos are weaker across the board i was told strictly to stay away from them, and as far as ive been told you cannot put an r34 auto into an r33

I suppose it depends - If he is running an aftermarket ECU - The TCU will still function somewhat independently.

"Maybe" is possible to use the TCU from a non turbo R34 to control an auto from an 34 GTt...

Just throwing some ideas around - I don't know if it will work though.

I suppose it depends - If he is running an aftermarket ECU - The TCU will still function somewhat independently.

"Maybe" is possible to use the TCU from a non turbo R34 to control an auto from an 34 GTt...

Just throwing some ideas around - I don't know if it will work though.

A non-turbo R34 auto is pretty much an R33 auto..

But there must be a way to make the 401b boxes strong as I'm pretty sure there's a guy in WA using a 4WD 401b box in a drag car...

  • 4 weeks later...

i have a 1995 S1.5 R33 auto.... my car was putting out 225rwkw with a gt30 internal gated version. Ok, so now ive started to make more power, upgraded to a T65-25G, highmount 44mm ext gate running a power fc and mods to suit, my gearbox has a keas valve body, shift kitand manualised(3.5k worth of gear) it is now putting out 255rwkw on 17psi and so the fun begins. the clutches started to go on the dyno thus the low power figues, i rang around to have it rebuilt + a stall converter which im now looking at around 3.5k to do, and nobody can guarntee me that it will hold the power i chasing(350rwkw). You CANNOT beef up these boxes there is nothing available, so if your hunting 300+ at the bags, id look elsewhere for a box. im now sourcing and going to build a C4, its pointless spending big $$ on an auto that "might not" hold out the power im after.

cheers.

So let me get this straight, at 225rwkw it was a standard auto and was doing fine or it had been modified already?

I was just looking on Calais Turbo's site and it took to no 19 to see a manual for the fastest ET in QLD.. Maybe the other 18 need to look here if the manuals are the quicker option as they must be missing something!

He must have been a slow changer to lose the few seconds

  1. turbowerx 8.32 @ 154mph .............. ford 4l
  2. VLT87 - 8.7 @ 155mph .................. methanol , glide , gt45 26/30
  3. SHERIF - 8.79 @ 162mph ..................... roo16 gt45 RB30 , glide
  4. GREAME'S BROTHER - 8.8@158 ................. race fuel 32psi no gas 26/30
  5. IGNITE - 8.80 @ 154mph
  6. MYT16 - 9.3 @147mph
  7. CMY747 - 9.69 @ 139mph ................ 34psi glide rb30, c16
  8. OVL087 - 9.95 @ 137mph ............. 27psi gt35 , glide , roo16
  9. Exchaser - 9.96 @133mph ............. RB30, GT35, mt et streets ,31psi E85, keas 3 speed.
  10. MAXPSI - 9.98 @137mph ................. powerglide, streets, c16, 27psi, RB26 conversion
  11. 31PSI - 10.37 @ 131mph ................slicks,RB30/25,C16,24lb boost,Trimatic
  12. TURBOWERX - 10.40 @ 135 .............. 26/30 2spd 22psi pump no gas
  13. PWR 747, 10.45 @ 133 ............... 30/25 , T66, Keas 3 spd, PULP (plus booster)on MT Streets
  14. PSI06 - 10.55 @ 118mph............ powerglide, slicks, pump fuel, 24psi, T04e66, all RB30,
  15. 304-cid - 10.8 @126mph .................auto , 22psi , slicks
  16. Con - 10.8 @121mph
  17. weiksy 10.82 @ 126.6 ...................... RB30, Glide, pump fuel, 35/40, standard manifolds
  18. PSI316 - 10.9 @ 132mph - ................ to4z , glide
  19. Danny's Calais - 11.4 @124mph.......... manual, nos

Edited by goa33

Just get a C4. You wont look back. Mine has held 475rwkw so far

A non-turbo R34 auto is pretty much an R33 auto..

But there must be a way to make the 401b boxes strong as I'm pretty sure there's a guy in WA using a 4WD 401b box in a drag car...

MV Autos in Radelaide...or get a C4/TH350 if you want stupid power

MV Autos in Radelaide...or get a C4/TH350 if you want stupid power

Sent them an email asking the price of the valave body and shift controller to make the auto manual since i have a power fc and also what sort of power the standard auto would hold, here is there reply.

Brett

260rwkw if the transmission is in good working order.

A shift controller costs $295

Shift kitted valve body $385

+ a core deposit of $100 which is refunded when we receive your valve body back.

+freight. Will need postal address to give you a quote.

Molly

  • 2 weeks later...

So let me get this straight, at 225rwkw it was a standard auto and was doing fine or it had been modified already?

the box had a KEAS shift kit in it, the same as the MV auto's one, except i had no shift controller and had no issues. seriously the best quote i have gotten so far is $3200 fully manualised box, built to handle 700rwhp using the keas kit(www.keas.com.au) + another 1500 for a cusotm built 8" pro drag stall converter from TCE. so your up for a good $5000 to build a decent RE4R01A box.

it ran day in day out with the shift kit and 225rwkw, but the clutches in the 3/4 clutch drum(3rd and 4th gear) always slipped, it was 2 much power for it, so after 2 yrs, it finally stuffed up when it was on the dyno and only hit 255rwkw when it should have made around 280rwkw.

so no matter how u look at it, the box wont hold big power without money thrown at it. my gearbox had 180,000kms on it, so maybe a low k's box will do better as long as you use good oil in it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...