Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Got a oil leak on the front of the motor around the oil pump and all up the face of the block. At the moment it looks like the cam covers leaking oil and running down the front of the motor(am in progress on changing them now)and filling up the cupped area on the pump. BUT im also thinking it maybe the front seal as well. How hard it it to change or is it worth just putting it into the motor mechanics and getting them to do it if it still leaks after fixing cam gaskets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378066-changing-front-seal-on-rb26/
Share on other sites

you'd wanna make sure it was actually leaking and at a rate that bothers you before you go to all the effort.

if you know your way around the engine bay all you need are some tools and engine manual (pm me if you need a copy) and you should be fine.

got no problems with doing the work, only thing is getting the harmonic balancer off but can make something at work to do that.

pretty sure is the cam covers making the mess as was alot of oil down the side of the block and think some has been sucked behind the timing cover by the looks. belt was changed about 50k ago so half way through its life.

will have a look at the cam seals tomorrow but dont think they are the problem either.

I have a manual as well, thanks for the offer anyway :thumbsup:.

not sure if ur aware of it mate but the allan key bolts from the cam cover match the thread of the two holes in the balancer. So if u end up making some sort of puller u can use those by just throwing some washers on the end of them. Though depending on how tight ur balancer is on there u may end up stretching the cam cover bolts so try get a hold of some yeild and spray the hell out of it....

Radiator will have to come out if ur goin to use a puller so u got some room....

thanks for the heads up Joe, will get some ss or high tensile ones from work.

got the motor back together now, just seeing if the oil will subside otherwise will pull the front down.

how hard it the bottom timing belt gear to get off??

already been to nissan and got the part number, cost about $31 i think. such alot of work for a little part >_<

they vary a lot. i pulled my rb25 timing gear off with my fingers, just slid straight off. then i needed a grinder to get the rb30 gear off, was fused to the crank. if its that bad you can try drilling and tapping it for a puller or you can cut it off like i did and use another one. i have a spare if you destroy yours :pirate:

have decided to give it in to my tuner now, got something wrong with the new tune i just got with the car not starting straight away and running like shite so he can look at that at the same time. damn cars :domokun:

Gunna have another look tomorrow to see if the cam seals are gone. Oil seems to be still coming from high up ( clear cam cover ). So going to remove top and bottom cover, clean everything, connect everything up and run it to see where its coming from.

Wouldn't think it would go above gasket line. Maybe I'm wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...