Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some of you know that I am putting a gt3582r on top of a 6boost manifold in my r33gtst. I have a z32 afm. Where have you put yours? I was thinking near the start of the "J" pipe. I have done some reading about it and I'm after first hand experiences on what psi it has burst at. Does wrapping it help? The manifold will be here early next week so I want to start getting it ready this weekend. Any other tips appreciated in regard to afm in cooler piping.

thanks.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/
Share on other sites

I have mine post cooler- pre tb in the straightest part of the pipe. There realy needs to be 200mm from the element to the tb and a fairly straight inlet into the afm.

I've been told by some very experienced guys to cut a hole in the existing pipe work, remove the electronics and sensor from the z32 housing and epoxy it in place.

I'm running a t67 and around 300rwkw with no issues at all.... infact, less issues. I've had the boost around 2 bar so far.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6030238
Share on other sites

make an intake pipe with a bend and put the afm pre turbo. aslong as theres a bend between the afm and turbo it'll work as per factory

Sounds good in theory but the turbo has a 4 inch inlet and restricting this in any way affects the spool of the turbo. I thought the same thing as you until I looked into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6030279
Share on other sites

Sounds good in theory but the turbo has a 4 inch inlet and restricting this in any way affects the spool of the turbo. I thought the same thing as you until I looked into it.

myth. a 3" afm is not going to affect your spool

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6030357
Share on other sites

myth. a 3" afm is not going to affect your spool

I know we were debating this in another thread a couple of months ago. I believed that because the actual hole in the front of the turbo is only about 2.5 inches (that's the technical way of saying it) that a 3 inch afm in front of it wouldn't matter. I cant for the life of me remember where I read it, and it wasn't Harey's comments, but it convinced me that it is better to run a filter straight from a pipe to the turbo and put the afm in the cooler piping. It will be easier to set up, putting the afm in front of the turbo. I'll try and find the link where it mentions it's not good to have the afm in front.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6030411
Share on other sites

had a single z32 on a twin turbo so i stuck it in the hot side cooler piping, just extended the wiring down. Ran like that for a year and was great as you could do whatever you wanted on the turbo side as far as pulling things apart/changing intakes and it would still fire up halfway through to move around with 0 issues.

I do suspect it was leaking a little bit on 1.4 bar as every now and then i would push the sealing square cover thing back in on its rubber

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6037496
Share on other sites

Ok so I got the 6boost manifold today and trial fitted it on the car with the turbo, wg and lines hooked up. As it turns out there is no room for the standard "J" pipe any more. I dont really want to cut it but I think it will fit if I do. I can then use all the standard vac lines to the carbon canister and bov. Also the intercooler pipe that comes across the fan wont fit either. But its all good tho. Tomorrow I'll invest in some silicone bends and a hacksaw to modify some of the piping that was on the car and some stuff in the shed. I will try the afm in front of the turbo for now and see how that goes. That way I can get away with using the existing air filter and afm wiring for now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6039590
Share on other sites

Got mine in hot side intercooler piping (+ve pressure) - gotta make sure it doesnt leak and silicon/epoxy it up. Advantages are as has been said - can drive the car with no intercooler piping and it will be fine up until boost obviously, really smooth all round, no recirc issues like stalling with a bigger turbo when clutching in etc and not infront of turbo so not a restriction with a 4" intake.

Soz about crappy pics

post-36975-0-34791000-1317418984_thumb.jpg

post-36975-0-06414100-1317419003_thumb.jpg

Had to relocate bov as well as if it is before the afm there will be real issues with recirc and stalling etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378124-afm-placement/#findComment-6039848
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
×
×
  • Create New...