Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1996 White R33 GTS-t Series 2, manual, 124,100km on the clock

Location: South Sydney, nearer the airport.

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Doing a year abroad next year

Asking Price: $11k with wheels, $9.5k BYO wheels O.N.O

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0433 731 300 or PM here

Extra Information:

Up for sale is my white 1996 R33 GTST Series 2 (manual) which I bought off a fellow SAU'er just over a year ago. It had 107,000kms on it when I bought it and has now done 124,100km. It has always been run on BP Ultimate and maintenance has been taken care of by Tunehouse in Marrickville during my ownership, and I haven't tracked or texi'd it or anything along those lines.

A service was just done on the 27th September, which included an oil change, new oil filter, new sparkplugs, new fuel filter, cleaned air filter + injectors and valves, power steering fluids, new rear brakepads, rear discs machined, retorqued suspension components, a couple new hoses and tested shock absorbers. Receipts will be provided.

The car has the following:

- Recently installed (Feb '11) Tein Super Street coilovers

- Just Jap front and rear strut braces. (not currently on the car but will come with it)

- K & N Pod filter (enclosed in Just Jap cold air box) with custom CAI.

- Full turbo-back exhaust system.

- Front mount intercooler.

- Boost gauge.

- Carbon fibre foglight surrounds (from SAU group buy).

- JVC single din Headunit (with iPod in) with sub and amp in the boot.

- Blue LED dash lights.

- Work XD9's (Gunmetal grey) – 18x9 +20 on the front, 18x10 +18 on the rear, wrapped in Kumho KU31 fronts and Falken rears,with blue Work lock nuts – all bought brand new in March '11.

- Genuine Nissan Skyline floormats.

- HMA 533 customized number plates (by previous owner)

- Tinted windows – not hugely dark, way above legal limits.

- Previous owner installed a new Heavy Duty Clutch around the 100,000km mark.

- Rolled / pumped front guards – by PhillB on theforums.

- Aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.

- It has a turbo timer on the underside of the dash but it hasn't been used/plugged in since I've owned it.

The one negative point is that I got the rear guards rolled to fit the new wheels and the paint cracked, and I haven't had the time to be without the car for long enough to get it repaired, as its my daily. – other paint scuffs on the bottom of the front bar due to driveways etc. (have a quote for $1400 to fully replace the rear quarters including paint).

The car currently has an S15 airbag steering wheel, the original Series 2 wheel is a bit tatty and will also come with the car – I am currently looking at getting it re-covered.

The typical R33 driver's side power window problem has also been rectified a few weeks ago which I somehow put up with for over a year – a new regulator, motor and switches was installed at the beginning of the month.

Registered until October 27th 2011 – just had the pink slip/roadworthy done with the service, which will be provided if sold before rego expires. Short remaining rego has been taken into consideration.

post-74434-0-58170900-1317132871_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-50823200-1317132949_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-04697100-1317132975_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-19782600-1317133022_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-22573600-1317133091_thumb.jpg

(those seats are no longer in the car - back to stock Series 2 seats)

Newer photos will be taken/posted up tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378454-nsw-1996-white-r33-gts-t-series-2/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

New photos taken the other day..

post-74434-0-87866500-1318238544_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-01161300-1318238593_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-20238600-1318238633_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-97978900-1318238670_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-28497300-1318238731_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-74725300-1318238766_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-24439000-1318238812_thumb.jpgpost-74434-0-66957200-1318238875_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-34710500-1318238915_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-10948600-1318238980_thumb.jpg

Open to negotiation, be it with or without current wheels! Heading off mid-end November so needs to be gone by then!

I'll be putting it up on Carsales tonight.

Rego ACTUALLY expires on the 20th of October I realised, so 6 months will be put on before any sale is finalised thumbsup.gif

PRICE DROPPED on SAU only, $10.5k with wheels, $9k without

Rego is up in a week so 6 months will be done in the coming days..

Price now dropped on Carsales as well, I would tend to be more negotiable with SAU'ers..

Offers welcome, worst I can say is no!

Here are 2 close up pictures of the paint crack on the drivers side rear guard, understandably/obviously not a huge selling point..!

post-74434-0-60618100-1318749123_thumb.jpg post-74434-0-26689700-1318749168_thumb.jpg

(The middle piece of loose looking paint is no longer there)

Needs to go soon...

$8,500 with wheels or $7,000 BYO wheels - before Thursday this week.

Going away for over a month on Thursday so car will not be able to be viewed after that until I'm back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...