Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys....

OK well this question i know will definately make me sound like the biggest noob when it comes to cars lol but it is just something ive been thinking about for so long,

Im planning on buying an NA r33, Supra or DC2r. Im just curious is it possible at all to loose traction and for the rear end to start kicking out in either the r33 or supra at 60 kms + on a turn shaped like a half C

i understand if flooring it in first gear on a 90 degree angle this is most definately going to happen but have never been sure about this typical scenario.

Any feedback will be appreciated guys thanks, Anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/
Share on other sites

Seriously stupid thing to ask lol. (why would you want/ need to know)

It depends what gear you are in, your tyres, if its raining etc. When I got my latest car (5 speed EF XR6), It came with real crap tyres, and if its raining and I put more then half throttle in any gear under 4, itll kick out.

When you say half-C , do you mean the C, or literally half of it? If youre going 60 and your in like 2nd or 3rd and your tyres are shit and the roads a bit wet then yeah you will loose traction in the rear, MAYBE if its dry.

Out of all of those cars get the Honda, shits all over the other two. NA R33's are slow as all hell, most/all NA Supras are bashed out shitters.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6036488
Share on other sites

i never got tired of drifting my NA R33 in the wet.

It loved it, it needed it, it was insolent if i didnt.

In the dry, yeah first gear eaily enough with WOT n some decent turn, second if you were really being mean to it and just crying out for a defect... 3rd? ahhhh, no, in a nutshell....

I also hear that some R33 N/A's came without a limited slip diff. If thats the case, avoid like the plague as it will surely hamper the drifiting efforts. Not at all hektic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6036527
Share on other sites

No they will lose traction but Grip and not follow through like a Turbo....If this car is going to be your daily don't bother, get a cheap thrasher like every smart guy out their who want to Drift and light up the trye's somewhere legal.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6036615
Share on other sites

lol ofcourse you can slide a NA. I wouldn't go a r33 or a supra if you want to slide though... get an NA s chassis.. stiff springs, welded diff and have fun sliding.. more skillz in drifting an NA... definitely possibly to break traction in either of those cars though.. just gotta know how to do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6036649
Share on other sites

I can't remember her name, but there's some girl from Australia who was invited to Japan to drift her in NA Silvia in some event.

My Supra can drift alright, I'd need a better clutch to get those 60+km turns as you need to clutch kick it quite a lot. I'd agree with getting some sort of NA Silvia though, the Supra can handle a single drift okay, but when you try and link it up the weight transfer just kicks your ass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6037237
Share on other sites

lol im not concerned about drifting guys i was just curious if i was accelerating through a turn like that if the rear end would kick out if i wasnt trying to? thats my worry? lol

the answer is both yes and no. if you are paying attention and using a bit of throttle control then you will be fine, and if the back was to start to let go you would feel it starting to lose traction before you were out of control. if you just turn hard into the corner with your foot burried into the carpet then it may let go (but more likely you would understeer more than oversteer in that example). the same goes for if you were to just floor it mid corner.

moral of the story, drive like a dick and bad things will happen. drive sensibly and you will be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378561-na-drifting/#findComment-6038116
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...