Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

I have a copy of the English version of the R33 Engine Service Manual which covers the RB20E, RB25DE, RB25DET & RB26DETT. It is one of the JPNZ prints. Photo of front cover attached. Almost 500 pages in size. $30 + postage

I also have a Nissan genuine parts air filter. Bought it for my R33 GTR but not needed. Mint condition, not even removed from its plastic sealed bag. Part number 16546-V0100. This filter may well work on other nissan vehicles. I have attached a photo of the back of the pack which has some info on applications I believe but I am no expert as to what other models is may be appropriate for - no refund if it is not what you're after sorry. $25 + postage

Hope these goods can be of some use to someone :-)

murray

post-2716-0-78519100-1317871546_thumb.jpg

post-2716-0-39920100-1317871887_thumb.jpeg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Want the 33 manual does it tell you how to do 100 000 km service like timeing belt pump etc. If it does it's sold to me

Want the 33 manual does it tell you how to do 100 000 km service like timeing belt pump etc. If it does it's sold to me

yep, sure does and for all R33 models.

I';ll pm you just to make sure you see this and send you some transfer details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...