Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going, ive got a problem with my R33, recently ive experienced a problem i went last week to power cruise and while dropping the clutch and sitting on the limiter for about 5 seconds and letting off ive developed this screach from the turbo, its a high pitched screach not the nice type of one, it happens only when boost comes on after 3.5k, i orginally thought it was the diff or gearbox but you can easily drive the car light footedly to the limiter without the noise.

I did remove my piping yesterday and havent noticed any shaft play on the turbo however i did notice oil in the intake piping towards the plenum and the intake pipe to the pod filter, i did however check the manifold and dump were secure to the turbo and they were and i couldnt see any signs of leaks.

I am not sure if the presence of oil could mean a bearing is blown or something, though i am guessing the sound is from the turbo as when i rev the engine i can hear it coming from the turbo.

So could you give me a few tips what could be the issue, because im guessing its the turbo and it needs a rebuild if not, could you tell me what possibly could cause that sound.

The car is tuned btw and its been running on 12psi, however when i turned the boost to about 6 psi it still made the screaching sound but not as loud.

Please give me some advice guys

NickPerth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379443-r33-turbo-screach-while-on-boost/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, ive had a similar problem, dont worry about the oil in the intake pipe, thats normal, its from the rocker cover breather, thats why people get catch cans, anyhow, a few months back i heard a slight squeek from my turbo when on boost, as the months went past it got worse and worse untill one day coming from work i floored it and the squeek got significantly louder and the car seemed to loose alot of power.

i thought it was shaft play, so i bought another turbo, took my one off and the propelers seemed fine on both ends, anyhow, i put the new turbo on and there was a significant differance in the sound and power of the car, it was like driving a totally new car, im still not too sure what was wrong with the old one might have been the internals of the turbo that were f**k*d.

hope that helps, good luck

yeah id say this sounds like turbo bearings going.

mine di it as was the case with miga24. Pretty common on stock rb turbos, especially when u start winding the boost up.

However how it occurs can vary but often it ends up taking out the rear turbine wheel when the bearings get so shit the rear turbine wheel falls apart from the instability/touching the housing.

look at getting a new turbo soon. There is the outside chance you can lunch a motor when the turbo does end up failing totally...

never heard of a warped manifold before on an RB...

are you sure this wasnt a mis-diagnosis due to the mechanic seeing the broken manifold studs n an exhaust leak n so thought that the manifold had warped when really it just needed a new exhaust manifold gasket n set of head studs?

yeah its pretty common, the way it is designed, the length of it causes it to warp..this is why others use split manifolds..

i think its ok while bolted down but once you snap a stud or 2 it then has room to move and warp.depend how hard you treat it and how early you are realized they snapped.

i was told when mine were replaced he used stronger studs than stock so they wont snap.. i havent really put them to the test though :D

f*k..

im doing the exhaust manifold job next weekend. (first n last studs are snapped off) I havent got an exhaust leak or anything so praying its just 18yr old studs calling time as opposed to a warp.

son of rajab please, have mercy on my wicked soul and forgive the manifold its sins!!!!

Alright thanks guys, well i am going to go and take the turbo off and manifold and check all the gaskets tomorrow and see what i come and get back with, also if its the bearings on the turbo would you recommend me getting a turbo rebuild kit from like eBay since Ive seen them for about $50 or so. Only reason i am saying this is, cause i want to get a high mount setup at the end of the year or early next year but i don't have the cash right now and i want to use something in-term for now just to hold off for another 3 months, before i upgrade.

good lcuk..

n from what i can gather- faaark no to the rebuild kit. Turbo's also need to be spun up and balanced. N im guessing you arent going to be able to do that to it...?

U can often pick up second hand R33 turbos for 150-250 these days. That'l see you through to the end of the year id say...

Hey hows it going, i took my turbo off yesterday and i chucked everything over it and it was all fine and then i preceded to take off my manifold and i noticed i 3 snapped turbo manifold studs, would you think that broken manifold turbo studs could be the problem, as i thinking of getting some new studs and repairing them and then going to put it back together and see if its fixed the solution.

iv never heard one but based n your symptoms and that you have 3 snapped studs (i take it 2 are on one header pipe?- so essentially no studs left holing that pipe on?) id say thats highly likely...

Im putting mine in this weekend to have the manifold studs n gasket re-done. Ill let you konw how it goes n if the guy is decent, and what the price ends up being...

so yeah. had my exhaust manifold stud n gasket done.

There was actually 5 snapped studs in total that had to be drilled out but the guy managed it no worries and the manifold was within tolerances for straightness so it was able to go back on with the fresh studs n gasket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...