Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going, ive got a problem with my R33, recently ive experienced a problem i went last week to power cruise and while dropping the clutch and sitting on the limiter for about 5 seconds and letting off ive developed this screach from the turbo, its a high pitched screach not the nice type of one, it happens only when boost comes on after 3.5k, i orginally thought it was the diff or gearbox but you can easily drive the car light footedly to the limiter without the noise.

I did remove my piping yesterday and havent noticed any shaft play on the turbo however i did notice oil in the intake piping towards the plenum and the intake pipe to the pod filter, i did however check the manifold and dump were secure to the turbo and they were and i couldnt see any signs of leaks.

I am not sure if the presence of oil could mean a bearing is blown or something, though i am guessing the sound is from the turbo as when i rev the engine i can hear it coming from the turbo.

So could you give me a few tips what could be the issue, because im guessing its the turbo and it needs a rebuild if not, could you tell me what possibly could cause that sound.

The car is tuned btw and its been running on 12psi, however when i turned the boost to about 6 psi it still made the screaching sound but not as loud.

Please give me some advice guys

NickPerth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379443-r33-turbo-screach-while-on-boost/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, ive had a similar problem, dont worry about the oil in the intake pipe, thats normal, its from the rocker cover breather, thats why people get catch cans, anyhow, a few months back i heard a slight squeek from my turbo when on boost, as the months went past it got worse and worse untill one day coming from work i floored it and the squeek got significantly louder and the car seemed to loose alot of power.

i thought it was shaft play, so i bought another turbo, took my one off and the propelers seemed fine on both ends, anyhow, i put the new turbo on and there was a significant differance in the sound and power of the car, it was like driving a totally new car, im still not too sure what was wrong with the old one might have been the internals of the turbo that were f**k*d.

hope that helps, good luck

yeah id say this sounds like turbo bearings going.

mine di it as was the case with miga24. Pretty common on stock rb turbos, especially when u start winding the boost up.

However how it occurs can vary but often it ends up taking out the rear turbine wheel when the bearings get so shit the rear turbine wheel falls apart from the instability/touching the housing.

look at getting a new turbo soon. There is the outside chance you can lunch a motor when the turbo does end up failing totally...

never heard of a warped manifold before on an RB...

are you sure this wasnt a mis-diagnosis due to the mechanic seeing the broken manifold studs n an exhaust leak n so thought that the manifold had warped when really it just needed a new exhaust manifold gasket n set of head studs?

yeah its pretty common, the way it is designed, the length of it causes it to warp..this is why others use split manifolds..

i think its ok while bolted down but once you snap a stud or 2 it then has room to move and warp.depend how hard you treat it and how early you are realized they snapped.

i was told when mine were replaced he used stronger studs than stock so they wont snap.. i havent really put them to the test though :D

f*k..

im doing the exhaust manifold job next weekend. (first n last studs are snapped off) I havent got an exhaust leak or anything so praying its just 18yr old studs calling time as opposed to a warp.

son of rajab please, have mercy on my wicked soul and forgive the manifold its sins!!!!

Alright thanks guys, well i am going to go and take the turbo off and manifold and check all the gaskets tomorrow and see what i come and get back with, also if its the bearings on the turbo would you recommend me getting a turbo rebuild kit from like eBay since Ive seen them for about $50 or so. Only reason i am saying this is, cause i want to get a high mount setup at the end of the year or early next year but i don't have the cash right now and i want to use something in-term for now just to hold off for another 3 months, before i upgrade.

good lcuk..

n from what i can gather- faaark no to the rebuild kit. Turbo's also need to be spun up and balanced. N im guessing you arent going to be able to do that to it...?

U can often pick up second hand R33 turbos for 150-250 these days. That'l see you through to the end of the year id say...

Hey hows it going, i took my turbo off yesterday and i chucked everything over it and it was all fine and then i preceded to take off my manifold and i noticed i 3 snapped turbo manifold studs, would you think that broken manifold turbo studs could be the problem, as i thinking of getting some new studs and repairing them and then going to put it back together and see if its fixed the solution.

iv never heard one but based n your symptoms and that you have 3 snapped studs (i take it 2 are on one header pipe?- so essentially no studs left holing that pipe on?) id say thats highly likely...

Im putting mine in this weekend to have the manifold studs n gasket re-done. Ill let you konw how it goes n if the guy is decent, and what the price ends up being...

so yeah. had my exhaust manifold stud n gasket done.

There was actually 5 snapped studs in total that had to be drilled out but the guy managed it no worries and the manifold was within tolerances for straightness so it was able to go back on with the fresh studs n gasket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
×
×
  • Create New...