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Kat's R33 Gtst Project

savage1987
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savage1987 Contributor

savage1987

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Plenty of work ahead but perhaps not as much as it looks from the photos :)

Cheap car!! and actually passed RWC pretty well straight away so that's a good start.

I'll let the pictures do the talking for now, plenty of info and work coming up in the following months.

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Is anyone missing their mailbox? I think its under the car!!!!

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Do you think that the pink number plates bring out my eyes?

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Replaced both tie rod ends straight off the bat, as one of them looked like this...

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And replaced the hub on the same side for good measure, just in case anything was bent/damaged, and because the bearing didn't feel 100%... unfortunately it was an ABS hub onto a car without ABS, so it was time for another trademark Sam-spec backyard fix :P Who ever would have thought of using a coke bottle lid to fix a problem......just imagine what you could do with an entire Mount Franklin bottle.....

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savage1987 Contributor

savage1987

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coke bottle top = awesome

What corp are you?

haha cheers, it's still there - I checked that the other day while I was greasing the thrust bearing :P

I'm RAE.

copy paste time:

Car is officially roadworthy and registered :)

couple of things to sort out

drivers' door doesn't shut as nicely as it should, and the key doesn't work in the lock of the same door properly.

couple of interior plastic trims need replacing with non-broken ones :)

wheels need a bit of a balance

still doesn't make power properly all the time, needs some tuning love I think. Read somewhere R33s don't like Nistune so that's a shame; PowerFC maybe, given that a bigger turbo will be on the cards for later on?? don't know enough about this side of things.

so we swapped the HKS pod for a generic pod PLUS a FMIC with all piping!

WTF!!

Pretty keen to get stuck into building this thing properly, but first i think it really needs a tune or SOMETHING since it uses about 540000L / 100km.

Sometime around Christmas we will strip the entire car and prep it for painting, inside and out. Panel shop can take care of the actual colour laying for us :)

I'm having trouble chasing down the source of a misfire / spark breakdown..

Idles fine

Coasting down in gear misfires

Under part or full throttle misfires at random so hard the R&R must kick in or something because it's like the power just drops away for a moment now and then

I've changed the O2 sensor just behind the turbo, there looks to be another one in the rear of the catalytic convertor but I don't know what the deal is with that..? Is this a common issue?

There's also an earth strap just hanging free from the floorpan right next to the catalytic convertor... where is this supposed to go?

The earth strap in the engine bay from the motor to the strut tower is a piece of shit, I need to replace this because it's rubbish and I'm not happy with it at all.

Other than this issue the car's going alright

a Z32 ecu (and AFM while I'm at it) plus nistune is our best option? I've been trying to read up on this stuff but there are so many opinions you never know who is just making shit up

Also how much benefit is there in upgrading to an aftermarket dump from the stock turbo? I noticed last night that the dump is the stock cast piping. Is it even worth doing this at all since we'll probably end up looking for a high-mount setup further down the track?

I replaced the shitty factory earth strap from the exhaust manifold to the strut tower with a nice 2GA cable. I also found that the FPR's vacuum/boost line from the inlet manifold had blown itself off so I cranked a couple of cable ties onto it pretty damn tight as a temporary solution.

It seems to have helped a little, it builds power a lot stronger now but still doesn't feel quite right, and the stalling issue has come back stronger than it was before (guessing because the mixture is leaning out properly with the vacuum input adjusting the pressure properly but whatever it is I need to fix it. I read somewhere that the pumps are designed to adjust their voltage at low demand (idle conditions) by means of a switching earth and that this can be circumvented by giving the pump a fixed earth right near the tank. I'll investigate this. Otherwise I'm starting to suspect the pump may need replacing because I'm sure this is a fuelling issue and I don't think it's high enough to be hitting the Nissan ECU's 7.5PSI fuel cut..

Getting somewhere, anyway. It's nice to get a step in the right direction every so often.

the plan is to strip it back over Christmas and have it sprayed white.

Got the Walbro in today. I set up a new relay right next to the battery with a feed directly from the positive terminal, using the previously existing fuel pump power feed as the signal for the relay. This means the new pump won't be subject to Nissan's fuel pump voltage drop at idle, which can only be a good thing, while retaining the ECU control to switch the pump off in case of an accident. I also gave the pump wiring a nice direct earth so it doesn't have to earth back through the loom.

I'll get some pictures up eventually.

While I was in the tank I removed and cleaned the fuel level sender assembly because I figured I'd be stupid not to do it while I was in there anyway. It's also worth noting that I used the pre-existing Nissan pump filter rather than the new one Walbro supplied because it (the Nissan item) afforded the pickup a little over an inch more reach downward and I didn't want to reduce my useable fuel volume.

savage1987 Contributor

savage1987

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Good build thread dude...i think i've seen you on some commodore forums...i converted...aha..

Good luck with it.

Thanks man, yes you would have seen my other build around probably - a VN Lexcen with an LS1 in it.

This car is a sidetrack from my two V8s. I figure it's good to get a bit of variety :)

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