Putting R33 Gtr Into Rwd ?

[Hadouken]

Yes. Thats why everyone does it!

Drr

[tricstar]

No it doesn't as said, the shaft bolts to the front diff end and has a splined shaft the slides into the transfercase which is sealed, so no oil come out..

Edited August 17, 2012 by tricstar

[tricstar]

another way to deal with this ( GTR in RWD ) is buy the "Full Race" 4WD controller, it has manual and auto modes, and in manual at the turn of a knob, all the way one way is max 4WD and the other way is complete 2WD=0 transfer case pressure.. also replaces the old Attessa computer and old G-Sensor, with much faster computer and better G-sensor, sounds perfect for track and strip... I got one coming (-;

ps, doesn't matter if R32,R33 or R34, makes them exactly the same...

[GCC GTR]

Thanks gentleman

[sydking]

another way to deal with this ( GTR in RWD ) is buy the "Full Race" 4WD controller, it has manual and auto modes, and in manual at the turn of a knob, all the way one way is max 4WD and the other way is complete 2WD=0 transfer case pressure.. also replaces the old Attessa computer and old G-Sensor, with much faster computer and better G-sensor, sounds perfect for track and strip... I got one coming (-;

ps, doesn't matter if R32,R33 or R34, makes them exactly the same...

ive wated to grab on of these aswell. looks to be a good bang for buck ATTESA upgrade.

[sydking]

did you get the ETS- PRO one? im assuming thats there product name, and not the model of ATTESSA it is suited to? a little confussing

Q: Does ETS-PRO work on vehicles with Active Rear Differentials:

A: We have not tested compatibility with Active Rear Differentials at this time. Instead, we recommend using the ETS-Pro with a clutch pack type differential such as stock GTR 2 way (reshimmed to NISMO spec plate:disc:plate:disc is highly recommended and free). Most high quality aftermarket units with a smooth lock like Carbonetic, ATS, OS Giken (soft lock) or Nismo may also work well. The key for a 4wd car like this is a smooth locking diff that is not overy aggressive, but does not slip open either.

Also a little unsure on it working with the ABS as per below

Q: The OEM system interfaces to the ABS system, why don’t you have any interface to the ABS system?

A: The ABS sensors are used on the OEM system to provide a method to increase the engine braking force and also open the diff in emergency braking situations. The ETS-PRO system comes with a "braking mode" program which has an emergency braking routine built into the braking program, allowing the diff to go totally open - so the brakes at each wheel can act independently in relation to the ABS in an emergency. We have weighed the option allowing customers to cut and splice into the ABS system in order to integrate the controller into it, and decided that it was high risk with no benefit.

Let me know how yours goes once its installed, Dosnet look they any of them replace the attessa ECU though?

have you compared this full rave one, To say ruzic, or tarzans?

[tricstar]

yeah the ETS-Pro..

I got rid of the A-LSD, great upgrade, and depending how you wire it up ( there are 2 options) it does completely replace the Attessa computer for 4WD control, except as pointed out above, not for ABS or A-LSD,. so I'm going to hard wire the ETS-Pro for the 4WD and leave the standard Attessa computer to do ABS.

Will report how it compares to the Ruzic I just took out, which was great for the track, and the new GPS one looks even better. But I like the sound of the Full Race one, whereas the Ruzic is map based the Full Race has map based and manual, in manual you have complete control, from max 4WD to complete RWD, could be handy for tyre warming at the drags, dynoing, drifting, etc

[AzN]

Sorry for the old thread dig, is the attesa bleed wire removal + brake pedal pump method confirmed safe?

[Hadouken]

Sorry for the old thread dig, is the attesa bleed wire removal + brake pedal pump method confirmed safe?

As per my service manual, and the fact that when I put it into rwd, I look on the torque transfer gauge and confirm no torque is being transferred.

Besides, The MANUAL says that you do this when towing the car with 2 wheels in the air.

[GTR260]

Sorry for the old thread dig, is the attesa bleed wire removal + brake pedal pump method confirmed safe?

Yeah mate it's perfectly fine, I get my car tuned on a 2wd dyno and the above is all I do! I actually have it hooked up on a switch to make things easier!

[AzN]

It's the brown connector with the yellow and green wire right?

Any tutorials on how to install a switch?

[Hadouken]

Google just how to install a switch in anything

[AzN]

When you're in RWD mode, can you put it back to 4WD without turning the car off?

[Hadouken]

No

[AzN]

I've found the bleed wire(brown connector) but does anyone know where this plug (circled in red) goes to?

It wasn't connected to anything.

Edited January 31, 2013 by AzN

[AzN]

*bump*

[Booki]

From memory that's the consult/diagnostics port.

Nothing to worry about.

[AzN]

I seem to be having some trouble getting it to RWD mode.

It's a hit or miss when I try to do it, sometimes it works and sometimes the 4WD light stays on.

I think it might be the turbo timer function on my alarm that's causing the issue...

I turn the key to "on" then I see the 4WD light turn off then I start pressing the break while starting the car and I keep pressing the break pedel until I see the 4WD light flashing.

This method only works for me sometimes, am I doing something wrong?

[Booki]

When i tried the RWD mode, my 4WD light was constantly flashing the whole time, there was no torque going to the front according to the factory gauge...and you could feel it. I presume its normal for it to constantly flash.

What i did was.

1. Disconnect the plug

2. Start the car

3. Press brake pedal till the 4WD light starts flashing

4. Drive

[Hadouken]

Its meant to flash. Thats how you know she worked.

Ad for the other dude. You start the csr then press the brake pedal.