Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

yer my 32 with 25 would happily rev at 7800 at 270kw with my 4kg aloy fly wheel with the same turbo set up as simon-r32

the t67 on a 20 might not be to good haha but i have been thinking about it

Ifraz (sp) makes 640hp at the wheels with his RB20. Pretty sure it has standard rods and yes RB20's will do 9k every day. Even with standard rods mine didn't fail until the oil pump finally let go. It saw 9k rpm most of the day for 18 months. Put in some rod bolts and it will survive.

If you want to rev to 10k + I would get a forged crank for a 26 and do up the Neo engine with a 2.8 stroker. 290 - 310 degree x 10.5mm lift cams and all the supertech gear in the head.

It will swallow babies but it will sound like an FA-18 on take off.

iv pulled down a few 20s and 25s its seems to be no proplem to install a 20 crank and rods in a 25 block

so a shorter stroke and a comp ratio of around 7:1, but i could get the block decked to bring pistons back to level

My only advice would be to wear protection.

If you are going to hang your dick out the window, which it sounds like that is all you want to do, don't be upset when the guy with the better setup passes you sideways

My only advice would be to wear protection.

If you are going to hang your dick out the window, which it sounds like that is all you want to do, don't be upset when the guy with the better setup passes you sideways

LOL best post this year.

The most insane RB track car I've ever heard, as well as a large amount of guys from the drifting in melbourne was powered by a stock RB25.

Of course if it had 290 degree cams and a smaller stroke crank with custom rods and pistons it would've been better

Panik hands down for me, best sounding RB I have ever heard :)

Sounds similar to the car Steve speaking about. Not sure which i prefer, hard to get the exact from video but having seen the other car in person it was certainly the winner. Best I've heard in 10 years!

Stock 25 head, 3ltr, 6boost manifold with a gtx35. Not sure of the gate/exhaust combo etc.

Sound is as much to do with the manifold, exhaust, gate size, angle/length of screamer as it is RPM anyway.

You could rev to 9000rpm and it could sound shithouse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...