Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just a small guide on how to install the rear speakers for the 4 door R34, i managed to do it and i'm pretty clueless at this stuff so you guys should be able to do it pretty easily lol.

There are a few guides on here but I thought i'd post one anyway.

To get to the back speakers we have to take the back seats, panels on the side and the shelf off.

Step 1

- Under your seats there should be a bolt on each side next to the door, just use a spanner and take them out

- Then take the bottom part of the back seat out,

The green arrow is the area where the bolt would be and that's what it will look like after

iphone109.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 2

- Okay now the top half of the seat, on the corner just under the seat on each side there are two hidden bolts, again take them out.

- Now to take this seat out, you have to lift it upwards because there is a hook behind it to support the seat. Just push it upwards and it should come off.

- Now open the boot, and take the back shelf thing off in your car, which leads to the handrest hole, makes things easier.

Should look something like this

iphone110.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 3

- Now we are taking the side panel off, it's attach using clips, so pull a bit of it off and you'll hear a few clicks(the clips detaching)

- Now one of the clips is really tight so stick your hand in behind the plastic, firmly but not roughly, push the plastic out from the inside

Green arrow ---> Panel

Red arrow ---> Shelf

iphone111y.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 4

- Now we are taking the shelf of, there are these 3 black things on top of the shelf, with an up arrow on them attached to the shelf, push it up really hard and let it open,

- Once the plastics open you'll see more bolts, unbolt it and lift the shelf up up, (you'll hear more clicks which are the clips detaching again lol)

Step 5

- Now you'll see the speakers, unscrew the 4 screws on each side, unclip the wire attached to it and put your new ones in.

Those are my old ones

iphone122.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Those are my new ones

25472410150272009155326.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Wiring

Okay my brother helped me out with this bit, all he did was look at the positive and negative side of the clip, put the correct + or - from the new wire we got with the speakers and put it in, used some electric tape to hold it firmly and it was all good to go.

Put everything back in reverse now.

How much money did i spend on this?

$1.65 for electric tape, which i bought from 7/11 down the road.

What did i use? Just a spanner for the whole thing.

And yeah they work perfectly fine.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...