Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det

mitch t
 Share

Recommended Posts

mitch t Rookie

mitch t

Posted
Posted

hey all i just bought a old mr30 skyline with a rb20det a few weeks ago. its a conversion with a supra gearbox t3 turbo with a big ass rear housing, front mount, external gate. boost tap, exhaust. its been driving fine untill up high no matter what the boost tap is set at the boost gauge is always pushing 14-16 psi and missfires. but last night i got in it turned the key the motor turns but wont start. i clutch started it and it ran fine then i turned the key off started it a minute later with the key it fired up, turned it back off waited ten minutes or so tried turning it again and wont start but the motor just keeps turning we checked the fuel line and im getting fuel past the fuel filter but beyond there i dont no. if anyone has any ideas on what it could be would greatly help im out of ideas. thanks all....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379850-rb20det/
Share on other sites
mitch t Rookie

mitch t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i tested the crank angle sensor i just pulled it out and turned it myself with the car on the reds and it sparked fine. would u think maybe the little teeth are stripped and its not turning inside the motor. i also ran over everything with a multimeter and im gettn power not a problem or should i start looking at the injector side of the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379850-rb20det/#findComment-6065206
Share on other sites
Isola Grand Master

Isola

Posted
Posted

If you can clutch start it and it runs fine, then you're most likely not going to have a problem with anything to do with your fuel or air systems, so I wouldn't waste time on your injectors. If one or more wasn't firing then it'd be misfiring like a mad bastard.

Sounds like a problem somewhere in the ignition system. Maybe the starter has crapped out (or maybe not getting enough voltage) and it's not spinning strong enough to engage the fly properly? It might sound like the engine is turning over properly, but could be not turning over fast/hard enough to actually start.

Have you done a voltage check yet? I'd start there. Make sure everything is getting enough battery power on start up. If it's started itself after running for 10 mins or so, then maybe the alternator has put enough kick back into the battery for it to give the starter motor the right voltage (which would be why it didn't start again after a brief on/off then sitting for ten minutes) OR the heat/vibrations in the engine has made a better contact on the starter motor connections.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379850-rb20det/#findComment-6068418
Share on other sites
mitch t Rookie

mitch t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im looking towards the ignitor all 6 pins dont look too well theres black lines showing and when i fiddled with it the car kicked over and drove started 2 more times now hasnt started since. im trying to get it to the auto elecs but its a bit of a nightmare trying to get it there but hopefuly getting another 1 will solve the problem ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379850-rb20det/#findComment-6082241
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...