Jump to content
SAU Community

Tt Soarer, Bagged, Vertex Kit, Eboost, Leather

soarertt
 Share

Recommended Posts

soarertt Contributor

soarertt

Posted
Posted

Up for sale is my Twin Turbo Soarer,

I am only selling this because i have just received a brand new company, and i am applying for a house loan next week so i need as much money as i can and this car is just taking up room in the company workshop ..

Mods inlcude:

Engine:

* Turbosmart E-Boost street boost controller (low boost: 12.5psi high boost: 14.5psi)

* Turbosmart Blow Off Valve

* Fuel Cut Defender

* Front Mount Intercooler

* Autometer boost gauge

* Viper turbo timer (working off the old/unused volume stereo on + off button)

Body Mods:

* Vertex bodykit (genuine vertex, no cheap copies)

- unpainted, but i have taken this into consideration when thinking of the price

* I have the 97 model foglights and grill for the front bar

* HID headlights, with LED parkers

* LED taillights

* LED mirror indicators (unpainted, not on the car at the moment)

Interior:

* Stock rear leather seats (great condition, no rips or tears or stains)

* Front seats are stock, but have been recovered about 6 months ago ( by Stitched Up Custom Trim)

* Door trims have been strengthened and recovered in stock coloured leather (by Stitched Up Custom Trim)

* Carpets are all clean with no stains

* "Soarer" matts are in the back and passenger floors

* Dash, Centre Console and are in great condition, no stains or colour wear or anything

Sound/Visual:

* Double Din Kenwood DVD player w/ Ipod + USB seperate connection, CD, Reversing Camera and GPS

* Carrozeria speakers on the rear parcel tray, sound great, super clear sound !

* Viper 12inch sub, mounted in boot, not too bassy and still sounds great

Electronic:

* Remote start (working off a keychain, works from a few hundred metres away)

* Push button start (working off the old stereo on + off button)

* Key chain can start the car, turn on the a/c, unlock the boot etc:

Wheels:

* 20inch chrome rims, no gutter rash or scratches

Suspension:

* Pedders Sports Suspension in the front

* Aftermarket air struts in the rear incl:

- viair 480 compressor

- asco valves

- tank mounted in boot

- switches in car beside the handbrake

- compressor switch hidden up in drivers footwell

- gauges mounted in stainless frame mounted to the side of the centre console

* Pedders Sports Suspension for the rear aswell (interchangeable, doesnt take long at all to swap it back to springs for track days etc:)

* Tucks 20inch rim and also sits about 20mm from laying rear bar

* Also can be driven laid out without scrubbing

As i need this car sold, i am open to offers around the $8,500 mark, please call or message anytime on 0402 493 150 and we can arrange a time for inspections

If pictures are wanted by anyone dont hesitate to message me on 0402 493 150 and i can send some straight through

post-76752-0-99562700-1318411023_thumb.jpg

soarertt Contributor

soarertt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah mate ive got more pics of the interior, if you check out my carsales link

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10950746&__Qpb=1&Cr=0&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294962861 4294961295 463 898&silo=1011&__No=15&seot=1&PriceFrom=463&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=20&__sid=132EA56EE24B

there are more pics there, and also a price, i am also located in Newcastle ..

if you want to know anymore, dont hesitate to message on 0402 493 150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...