Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha well I believe you have sold me that if I want more power turbo is the way to go. and a new car meant for turbo is the way to go there.

As for the oil might just check with SCA then as me and my mate were planning on doing a complete oil change and new oil filters in our cars next weekend I think

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Personally, if someone wants NA performance they should get a honda. For an NA liner all i'd do is a nice catback and intake, keep it as a cruiser. Sorry but when it comes to NA engine performance the RB25DE is a bit of a dead end.

Its cheaper to get a car that was original with a turbo because its always been there and didnt cost anything extra in the first place and turbos are common now so i see them on car sales cheaper than NA's.

Its a GTS-4 so you will have to get a stagea RB25 or an RB26 if you want to fit it easily. The RWD engine fits but it needs a bit of work done to fit it. It will cost you a few thousand to do this, especialy with a RB26. You might be a few weeks without a car aswell if it matters.

Also, my engine gave way at 160,000km. It was using 5L of oil (40w-70) every 500km to keep it going. It's a GTS-4 and work at NISSAN and it took me 6 months to get all the parts and i was doing the fastest orders and stuff availible, a lot of engine stuff for the NA is not available anymore so i has to get 40thou genuine pistons and ACL bearings, new genuine crankshaft and heaps more bits and it was a headace to find the stuff. Cost me thousands and after the rebuild i got 20kW out of a newer fresher bigger engine, it was not worth it. I have always thought rb25's to be fragile as f**k, but i cant say that its a fault because they get thrashed. Just dont bother with a NA engine you get no where if you dont have LOTS of money to spend on it.

Agreed,any engine will just about go at 160 000km's if your spending time on the Redline

My r31 with n/a rb26/30de cost me about $18k for motor coilovers brakes sway bars haltech tune, exhaust etc to get it where it is now with 225hp and trade prices and working at a machine shop.

Though my idea was for circut racing, fast into corners and fast out, but also knowing ill get over taken on straights

So yeah i agree n/a cars aren't cheap and to get that power the trade off for me is loss of disability below 30km/h

Someone mentioned some time ago "cheap fast reliable, pick 2"

Someone mentioned some time ago "cheap fast reliable, pick 2"

I do like that saying, may have to start using it.

But I think the decision Im going to have to go with for speed is simply a new car with a stock turbo engine =] so a bit of saving to go then bam new slowly increasing project car =]

Right this is probably not needed as your mind is made up, I was one of those ones that wanted to keep my motor and turbo it, (also GTS4).

It did cost more then selling and buying a gtst, i did loose a car for about 10 days, I did some of the work myself, some the mechanics did, sourced all the parts myself from this forum's for sale area and saved a heap on parts, would not have it any other bloody way.

My reason's for for keeping my car and doing the work are/were:

- I knew the car ran well, motor was very low kms (about 90-100,000 I think when I did it)

- I had just spent 9 months looking at tons of thrashed skylines and this one was fob and I was the first owner in aus (suspect owners in jap land drove it very sedately as it had baby seat mounts where the rear speakers should have been)

- It was my first car, had spent every single bit of my savings plus a loan from dad for it, was not ready to sell it after a year

- As it was a GTS4, I could not buy a awd turbo skyline unless it was a GTR or older 32 GTS4

- Because of my conversion, cops couldn't work out what it was, yes I was a p plate, but back on the old power to weight ratio it was just under (I told them it was the power of a GTST and weight of a GTR) and not being a smart ass to cops meant I got away with it every time.

reason for not keeping it and selling/swapping:

-save some money

- hopefully the new skyline was roadworthy instantly and I would have a car for those 10 days

all up it was probably about 1-2grand more doing it my way and I still am really happy with it, and now its alot more and alot faster and I am really happy how it has turned out. Something to think about, seeing as you already like your car's shape/4 doors etc.

Ha i have a feeling Im going to be swayed this way and that constantly by everyones view of it. I like the idea of doign some of the work myself, (essentially my dream) but I dont have a lot of know how? did you fluke your way through it or check up manuals etc?

And I think seeing im swayed so easily it might be safest to save some money up before making any decision cause it would be rather big. Luckily over here in NZ though even on L plates (equivelant of P plates I think) there is now power limit. But im fully licenced so it wouldnt matter =]

Cheers for the input though good to see that it can be done the orignial way I was thinking of doing it

Back then I was just getting a grasp of changing a tyre.

good relationship with workshop (they would briefly show me what would need to be done/swapped - things I couldn't do they would i.e drilling and tapping a thread for an oil line in the block) + lots of forum searching + manuals, you need to have some research and know the basics of what a turbo needs to function and what goes where in order to perform those functions.

The stripy horse has a fair point though, there are lots of parts here, I don't know about NZ, it may indeed be easier to sell/keep your motor for what it's worth and buy a complete drop in motor, probably would work out similar costing + you have a backup engine if things go wrong, not a bad way.

Ha so around very much the same as where Im at at the moment :P Ive seen a couple kits for pretty much what I would need to swap my engine into a 25DET but for reasons I cannot explain I'm feeling sceptical about them. Admittedly once again they were auctions so the cheap start price may have put me off though, will have to start talking to garages and what not and places like SCA about what they think parts availability would be like or if they know of any special places to source an engine or parts.

Is there a turbo engine for 4wd that isn't a NEO? im new to the whole NEO thing in general and will have to read up as to how they differ but (and please dont hate me for this) I just dont like the look of them

oh shit...disregard the sump thing...forgot you also have 4wd (which is the whole reason we are having a converation about stag motors)...yes use your sump so the front diff ratio is the same (the sumps are the same anyway, just the diff gears might be different)

Ahhh ok yea I get you now so keep my sump where it is and just bolt the newer turbo top half on?

I feel like I should really start checking out more indepth engine instructions to wrap my head around this

yeah, basically rip old engine out, pull sump off, bolt old sump to new engine and drop the new engine in, plumb everything up and drive.

You will need the Turbo ECU, intercooler and piping a bigger fuel pump and that's about it.

Best bet would be to grab a Turbo 4wd Stagea halfcut and swap everything over.

Agreed, you wont be able to use a RWD engine because the shape of the block is totaly different, you wont be able to bolt the 4WD sump to it. You would need a RB25(4WD) or RB26. You also have to take off 2 of your doors for weight reduction of the turbo wont work :P

Stagea's have an rb25 (4WD) or you can also find them with the RB26. Basicly if you want it to be 4WD make sure you buy a engine that is 4WD or you are going to have to stuff around with a lot of money for the reason of you buying a RWD engine and realising that you wanted to keep it 4WD

Edited by central coast person

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...