Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine bottom end rebuild 200kms ago - currently running in.

Time to advertise the Stagea Ive owned for over 6years.

Bought for 18k, and spent well in excess of 35k with modifications over the years. Owes me well over 50grand.

Tuned numerous times following upgrades, originally from 120kw to 140kw, to 160kw, to 180kw, to 185kw, to 190kw, to 200kw, to 205kw, to 220kw, to 235kw, to 240kw, to 250kw.

All work performed by Boostworx (Shaun Dunns); have been a loyal customer throughout.

Advertising as I'll be a University student for the next 4 or 5 years and looking for a cheap basic run around car instead of this beast.

Mods as follows:

1997 Series 1 Nissan Stagea RS V Four Station Wagon,

118,000kms, forged RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd, Automatic,

Silky Snow Pearl, Dayz bodykit, Fresh fluid throughout. Well Maintained. 335rwhp / 249rwkw

Fully built, forged engine currently being run-in. All work by Boostworx.

Engine:

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Splitfire coil packs

NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

MV Automatic manual electronic shift kit & auto service kit

Koyo Radiator upgrade

Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit

Fujimoto sump plug drain valve

Catch can kit

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nismo Z32 Air Flow Meter

3” JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system , with 3” de-cat pipe

3” cat-back exhaust system with Magnaflow mid-muffler and Kakimoto GTR Racing rear-muffler

Cold Air Radiator air guide for cold air induction

Apexi power intake pod filter, using standard snorkel air feed & under body feed

Trust 600x400mm FMIC bar & plate, with custom hard pipe kit

Hard pipe turbo intake kit

Garrett 18psi heavy duty turbo actuator

Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger with ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housings

- 60mm diameter 84-trim GT30 turbine and 76mm diameter 7/14 bladed compressor wheel

JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors

CP forged pistons, with complete engine rebuild

ARP head stud kit

Ported, Flowed & Machined headwork including new valve seals, valve seats and valve guides

EPP Clear camgear timing cover

Cometic gasket kit including rocker cover, intake manifold, intake collector & exhaust gaskets

Cometic head gasket 87mm x1.2mm

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

Tomei 256 intake / 256 exhaust poncam camshaft set

Tomei 8.8mm high lift springs

Tomei oil gallery restrictor

700177-5015 GT30R Turbo CHRA Specifications:

compressor wheel inducer size: 57.02mm

compressor wheel trim: 56mm

compressor wheel exducer size: 76mm

turbine wheel inducer size: 60mm

turbine wheel trim: 84mm

turbine wheel exducer size: 54.8mm

Suspension:

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Whiteline front and rear heavy-duty adjustable sway bars

Dayz adjustable engine swaybar

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe pineapple alignment kit

Ox_Wheels 18x8.5” +35offset

Pirelli Pzero Corsa semi-slick 235/40/18 tyres

Brakes:

R32 rebuilt rear brake calipers and discs, braided lines

R32 rebuilt front brake caliper, CZP brake bracket, 324x30mm drilled track rotors

Cusco brake master cylinder clamp

QFM A1RM front and rear track brake pads

Audio:

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp mounted to enclosure for Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Interior:

SAAS D1 Drift adjustable race seat

Flynn racing seat rail

Apexi electronic boost gauge

AEM F/IC-8 Piggyback ECU with Dell c640 latitude laptop

Greddy Profec-B spec-ii dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1.00 bar and 1.20 bar

Toshi ecu remap

Boostworx tuned 249rwkw

Bad Points:

Under mirror rust bubble hasnt been attended to as yet.

Under rear guards the paint has chipped since the guards were slightly rolled.

Minor scratches on the roof from some low-life.

Priced to sell at $15,000.

Southern Adelaide pickup.

My pride and joy, but need to put myself through University (Med.Science) and I feel the Stagea wont be loved as it should during my Uni years.

Comes with Dell laptop to tune the Fic/8 piggyback ecu. Also will provide all spare parts.

Picture showing current near-new 18" wheels

post-18854-0-08091500-1319241456_thumb.jpg

Previous photos

post-18854-0-10656400-1319241506_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-74568300-1319241537_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-04697600-1319241551_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380883-sa-1997-nissan-stagea-rs4/
Share on other sites

Its advertised here on SAU, only. Genuine reason for sale - House still hasnt sold yet after half a year under contract, I cant afford morgage repayments & am on the absolute bones of my arse. Pretty much hit rock bottom 2 months ago, which is a good thing in all honesty as I made myself get off the medication that sent me crazy.

Heart says Im silly to "give it away", head says to be smart about it. University is my #1 priority for the next 4 or 5 years.

I'll get stuff all back from the house sale, when it eventually sells (been screwed over by the agent),and will need it all to cover living costs.

Funds will be too scarce while at Uni to run the risk of anything going wrong, even general maintenance, on the Stagea.

I really dont want to see it gone, but all my time will be focused on succeeding with the Medical Radiation Science course. For the first time I just dont see my pride & joy being in my future - however I now see a future for myself. Just need a little run around car to run errands as I'll be using public transport during the weekdays to/from Uni in the city.

Considering Ive spent well over 50k all up, including car purchase, 15k is probably letting it go too easily, but perhaps its the right option in my current circumstances. Whom ever buys it, whenever that happens, will be getting something pretty special.

Sad about it, nonetheless.

Built for Go not Show

Quite a few things missed in the 1st post listing (for example: Dazy bodykit, Twin sunroof, Momo steering wheel, etc.)

Comes with a whole load of spares.

Now also advertised on Drive.com.au

genuine sale - $15,000 firm.

post-18854-0-66913800-1319352701_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-79572800-1319352724_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-52267200-1319352749_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-50045200-1319352778_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-77679500-1319352803_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-17694600-1319352830_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-33671200-1319352943_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-38760600-1319352966_thumb.jpg

post-18854-0-81857300-1319352987_thumb.jpg

didn't see that one coming! thought this would be something you'd be holding on to forever!! after everything you've been through with the car it must be hard for you to have it for sale, but looks like you know where you want to end up and how you're gonna get there so looks like it might be a step in the right direction. wicked rig, seen it in person, and deserves a free bump. good luck with the sale big fella :thumbsup:

Thanks Mike. Always said Id have ownership for a dozen to 15yrs - perhaps I still will but putting feelers out there in case someone is interested. My attitude now is "its just a car" and she deserves better than that, but all my focus is geared towards my future years at Uni and a cheap run around car will do me just fine for the next handful of years.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

man both your cars are so cheap.. im in the rock bottoms of income atm but i sure do hope i can get a permanent job soon!!! sooooooooooooooooooooooo cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap..

  • 2 weeks later...

Im sorry but probably not. Is it 2 or 4 door?

Id be after a sedan or a wagon if I was to sell the Stagea.

Probably wont sell my car at this stage, unless someone paid the $13500 (Firm) - sold the track car last night so Im in no rush to sell the stagea now.

And considering the engine is only 400kms new, with up to 300kw potential once run-in and tuned, Im possibly better off at the moment to keep the Stagea - UNLESS a deal that was fair to me was negotiated.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Done 900kms now, arranging the tune soon.

Had a very nice offer of a R34 gtx sedan + cash my way for a swap but honestly im just after a cheap budget run around car for errands. Happy for swap&cash but based on a basic run about vehicle. Cheers

hey mate ive got a 2002 Honda Jazz VTI-S which I could offer for trade + cash if you're looking for a run a bout. It's been my A-B car and has even been to the snow and back no worries. It's a hatchback but with the way the fuel tank was designed and the rear seats fold you can fit snowboards, couple roadbikes in the back no worries. 5.5L/100km doing highway home to work can't go wrong either!

I'm in melbourne though and currently in tassie for work until mid feb so if you haven't sold it by then keep us in mind, just wanted to see what you thought about it

I know the car, nice little vehicle. Potentially interested BUT is it an auto (cant do manual; no knees)?

Had 1000km run-in service completed yesterday with a quick tune, 230rwkw at 13psi (rwd dyno with front driveshaft out).

Builder/Tuner wants me to do another 800kms then come back for a hi-boost tune.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks terry, yes I think so. If no one wants it and I've still got it post-Uni I'll take it further with a nismo bodykit, full respray, larger injectors & z32 nistune ecu setup. But for now im better off with a cheap economical 4cyl runabout.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...