Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahah I'm going to try and do it period mod, So it looks like it was wrapped in a bubble in 1997 or something.

So something along the lines of an old school Jap turbo kit (td06H-20g anyone :whistling: )

We shall see, what happens, it has a built A340E and a 3k(ish) stall, so next year sometime I'll drop a 5 speed in it get some big brakes on the front and get into some track work again.

Going to keep this one nice and simple (re: minimal mods) and tidy it up...and the most important thing

DRIVING THE BLOODY THING!

tl;dr? sub 300kws, brakes, drive

yeah or that.

I figure that if I keep it VERY simple I should be right lol

I wasnt planning on selling the Soarer...but this was too good to miss :thumbsup:

Also means I no longer have to keep an eye on my105 for a cheap as chups track car as I'll just use the supra

Back to the Car - I originally thought that the Twin Turbo R wasnt all the much different to the regular JZA70, I initially thought that all it got was much lees weight, recaro seats, momo wheel and Bilstein shocks.

Turns out it also has bigger anti-roll bars and stiffer springs, Now the Bilsteins are long gone (now has KYB's) No plans to change those just yet, as this car will well and truly be a case of if it aint broke don't fix it. May even save a thousand odd bucks on the brake upgrade and throw some track spec pads at it and see how it goes.

so no more soarer????

Still here being picked up just after xmas...did yours sell or are you parting it?

brake rotors and pads first, dont be one of ''those fanboys'' that think they need brembos to be fast.

brakes are pretty average standard, 300x22 with a single piston caliper

Dont fit

There is/was a kit out there that used R33 Gtst Sumitomo calipers and a 324mm rotor, was looking at pics of the kit yesterday and in all honesty it looks rubbish

Wilwood do a kit for under a grand using 330x28mm disks and their forged superlight calipers.

Not a huge fan of the cheaper wilwood calipers, so may buy the hats and get a thicker rotor and their better caliper and have bracket made to suit.

Just stumbled across this pic

I knew the 1JZ had short rods, but not this short

1JZ-gte rod and piston on the left and 2JZ-gte rod and piston on the right, 2JZ rods are shorter than RB30 rods too btw

1jz rod is 125.25mm, and look how solid the thing is! So any plans I did have of rebuilding the 1J down the track just got a whole lot cheaper :D

DSC03034.jpg

1J and 2J pistons also have the same pin height, so they are interchangeable but the piston crowns are slightly differernt

wow that's a short rod, the 1j rod looks alot thicker than the 2j rod too.

the piston skirt looks a little different between the two.

Edited by tweety bird

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...