Spark Plug Help? Rb25/30Det

[HR31-PASSAGE]

hey guys just put some NGK R5671A-8 spark plugs in that my mate recommended me to use & now my ecu hand controller is spazzing out coming up with all weird readings on it. it also was blowing some smoke with black liquid out.

why would this be?

engine is an rb25/30det conversion with gt3076r, aftermarket ecu bla bla bla

any help would be great

cheers luke

[roonVR]

First thing I'd do is gap those sparky's to 1.1 mm and see how you go?

[HR31-PASSAGE]

First thing I'd do is gap those sparky's to 1.1 mm and see how you go?

there meant to be .8

[kitto]

Wrong plugs, your mate is wrong.

NGK BCPR6ES, they are gapped to .8mm off the shelf unless you get the -11, they are at 1.1mm. Change them every 10,000.

[HR31-PASSAGE]

Hmm well I had stock plugs in & the gap was 1.1mm & they only lasted around 2000ks if that really.

Would they be the best performance plug to use?

[kitto]

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

[luvpsi]

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

thought that about the cam breathers when i first saw pic also

[HR31-PASSAGE]

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance.

Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though.

80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm.

Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

yeah just factory ones i guess.

whats the best copper plug part number then?

& the hose was on there from the old set up it was singly running into a can

[kitto]

whats the best copper plug part number then?

I've told you twice now...

[luvpsi]

As above and you will have to prob order .8 asost auto stores stock the common 1.1 as they are used in many other cars

[Zorro]

Dude stop using those plugs immediately! They are non-resistor, thats why your ecu is spazing out & non-projected, so probably spitting fuel out too!

Ok this has been covered so many times its not funny, however the info often given is only half right!

So here goes again......

Cheap ($4-5ea) reliable plugs are :

NGK

BCPR#EY

BKR#EY

# = correct heat range number (ie: 6->8).

*These plugs are gapped at 0.8mm std, but a suffix of -11 or -13 or -15 indicates a larger gap than std 1.1mm, 1.3 etc

Service life is about 5000km! (less under extreme conditions, such as high psi turbos)

**also note that -Y is for V-groove electrode, a much better performance design over the old standard -S type (pretty much the same price)!

The standard plugs are not iridiums, but platinum plugs PFR5G-11. These are a hotish plug with a larger gap, than what we prefer to use, they are suitable for mundaine city crawling, but not performance. But reduced gap and colder heatrange (pfr7g), would give similar performance as the "copper" plugs, but a much longer service life of >50,000km.

Standard iridiums (ie: BCPR6E -IX) are not really meant for extreme pressure/turbulance turbo applications, but the racing iridiums (IRI-) are, although quite expensive ($30-35ea)! *0.8mm gap std.

IRIWAY#

IRITOP#

* I recommend a heatrange '#' of 6 for stock engines, 7 for moderately modded with psi increase, 8 for heavy mod with >20psi (hicomp turbos >15) & 9 for extreme rpm outright racing.

The use of the CP or K (likewise WAY or TOP), are compatible with each other as far as our application is concerned, so dont stress too much over which one you get. One is the JIS standard and the other is ISO standard, all of about 1.5mm difference in the metal body length where the hex is. But to be precise, the RB25's use K or WAY and RB26's use CP or TOP.

To be clear on the gaps, tuners agree that for the stock ignition sytem, in modified engines reducing the gap from 1.1mm to 0.8mm gives a more reliable spark, reducing missing and hesitation & other ignition nasties. It is possible to increase that gap with upgraded ignition systems, which could gain some performance and economy from reduced kernel quenching (igintion flame front propagation shielding) & reduced emmisions. However it is a bit of a trade off between the ideal and the actual! For the sake of simplicity stick to 0.8mm and you wont have any trouble!

If you want me to pick a plug for you, go: BKR7EY every 5000km. (I use IRIWAY8).

*** With regard to the other side topic: The RB25 breathers are linked from factory, with a single common breather off the drivers side!

****Just FYI, i sell these all day every day, its my trade!

Edited October 28, 2011 by Zorro

[roonVR]

just get the standard NGK BCPR6ES-11 ,(or the 8's if they have them in stock) gap it to 0.8 mm and bob's ur uncle. You shouldn't have any problems after that.

[Zorro]

[krayzie32]

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

[HR31-PASSAGE]

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

yeah thats what i went with they seem better then my last ones i was running more responsive & sounds more healthy

cheers for all the info guys great help

[rob82]

Go the NGK BCPR7ES they come pre gapped to .8 & 1 heat range colder helps with cold starts etc every tuner ive been to tunes with these & bins the iridiums.

Also they should cost around ~$2.80 - $3.80 a plug and change every 2 service periods...

Youll go through 4 or 5 sets before spending what iridiums cost.

Colder plugs don't help cold starts at all.

[blue_vl_t]

Colder plugs don't help cold starts at all.

i was thinking that......

I run 7 heat range in an rb26, runs great, i run a slightly cooler plug to avoid detonation

[JonnoHR31]

if your running a standard internal motor just stick to 6's, run better overall and last longer. dont bother with 7s unless your making big power and heat induced detonation is a problem.

[Zorro]

sparkplug 101: plugs de-mystafied one post at a time!

LOL this is the problem with taking the advice of someone who really doesnt know or understand spark plugs, but just regurgatates some BS hes been fed! Probably why plugs seem to be such a mystery item?! Prime example is thinking that cold plugs help with cold starts, when they dont at all, if anything on a micro level doing the opposite! Heatrange is for matching operational combustion temps. So for city crawling, low engine speeds & light loads, lots of deacceleration, lots of idle time, stop starts etc means carbon buildup & other deposits form, fouling plugs, causing hesitation, poorer economy & higher emissions, requiring a hot plug to be used (the term hot and cold, can be missleading). Whereas in high rpm, high load, WOT conditions, a colder plug is needed, for several reasons, reducing the chance of pre-igniton is one of them! It is a bit more complex than that but for the scope of this thread that is more than enough.

Also what is with the insistance of using the 'S' plugs, when 'Y' plugs are the same price & just as available, but are superior in performance?

Not to mention the use of K plugs for the rb25..........

*expect to pay up to $5 per plug for "copper" NGKs'! You wont get them for $2.80ea from any auto store, the actual cost from the supplier is around that!

I have CP & K in all heat ranges, gaps & types on the shelf, any decent parts store should & i can have IRIs in half a workingday.

BKR7EY (or BCPR7EY) are perfect for spirited street use, if your pinching your pennies or IRIWAY7 if your wallet is deep enough &/or your a perfectionist looking for max performance (use 8s if your gonna hammer it 24/7)!

Also the platinums are quite a good plug when selected correctly, with a great reliable service life; just pricier than copper and less performance than the iridiums so thats why they arent first choice for a tuner, but are recommended by Nissan!

The "Racing Iridiums" (IRIWAY, IRITOP.....etc) are the best you will get, far far superior in every aspect (except price) to any other plug! Why else would NGK and NISMO, HKS etc pour hundreds of millions of dollars into research, development & testing, and use them in ALL their cars? But your mates, brothers girlfriends cusions, nextdoor neighbour, said that a guy he met a the pub one night knew a guy who had one of those cars and said his tuna told him that lawnmower plugs are fully sick & shouldnt use anything else! But in all seriousness consult a professional with regard to what plugs are best suited to your setup & use, then you will never have this problem!

I just wonder how many people actually read all the posts (& understand them), before they feel the need to post themselves?

[Zorro]

Just thought id also add, that colder is not always better! Getting the correct range is important to efficient operation. Try this little exercise: time how long it takes you to travel from a to b on your normal drive, then using a stopwatch (may need assistance) time just how long you actually spend accelerating. You will most likely find it is less than 10% of your drive! Therefore standard recommended heatrange is fine for most or one colder if you have mildly modded it or push it a bit occasionally. If your normal drive is getting up into the hills and going for it, you will find accel times are around 20-50%, in which case your gonna need colder plugs to deal with this. Go out to a track and 70% is common, frosty cold is the go!

NGK heatrange numbers get colder the higher the number is (other brands have a different system)!

*Also worthy of mention is that these hetranges are recommended based on the use of benzo, long chain hydrocarbon based petroliums (unleaded, premium98 etc). However, short chain alcohols (inc E85), gases and other exotic fuels will require a different heatrange (usually colder), possibly also gaps, projection lengths, electrode material types & cathode constructions etc!

Thats my 2cents, take it or leave it!