Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

New here, love it.

A mate of mine is looking for a R33 GT-R and came across Edward Lees Japanese Auto Centre in Parramatta road. The guys there reckoned they can get anything in from Japan for a good price.

Any body bought from there? Any good? Recommendations please.

Cheers,

Your Bum

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/
Share on other sites

Don't want to bad mouth a business I've had no dealings with, but alot of the cars have been there for quite a while

And a few people seem to have bad things to day about Edward lees

If your going to get something imported maybe speak to

Kristian @ iron chef imports, he posts here quite a bit a seems to have a few very loyal customers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6097806
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Highly recommend Top Secret Imports. Although I haven't bought anything from them before, I did however had a consultation whilst in search of a new R34 after my one was written off. I have seen their cars and their service center, also their customer service has been the best I've seen by far in Car Dealers and even other industries where customer service is far more paramount than cars, yet TSI exceeds it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6752064
Share on other sites

Go and see Xtreme Motorsports, directly across the road from Edward lees. Great people there and Joe the owner is the most genuine salesman I've met. My girlfriend was looking at buying an S15 from there and her finances didn't come through so he gave her back the deposit and holding fee no questions asked. I bought my EP3 there and never had a problem in the 3 months I owned it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6752995
Share on other sites

Shaun i do the same thing with deposits, that's why i always make them subject to finance approval. And i also do the follow up phone call, only i do it 2 months later. He would have a reminder automatically setup in his computer x amount of weeks/months after delivery. Same as me :)

Edited by Seano350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6753048
Share on other sites

Don't do it!!! The boss Phil is a total liar and very bad person. I got a car from them after they pressured me into it saying i wouldnt get my $1000 deposit back and so on, the car has literally fallen apart on me bit by bit since I received it. They are overpriced and full of sh*t!!!!!! Bad bad people

Hang on so you paid $X thousands for a crap car because you wouldn't get your $1k back? Doesn't make financial sense.

That aside if they had no right to keep your deposit i would camp my a$$ on the front driveway of the lot and have a chat to every customer that walked in until they returned it.

D!ckheads they may be, but sorry dude, your scenario is your own fault.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6753155
Share on other sites

Long story....but basically I had to pay $1000 deposit on a 17,000 car and was told on the phone it was awesome when it turned up it was not as good as they made out but PHIL the idiot said if u don't buy this car ill keep your $1,000 and u own me a % toward the car so I would of ended up paying another $1,700 for nothing he used his car cakes bull talk and was a total dick!

So basically you got "screwed over" because you didn't do any research into what your entitled to and that you should have been refunded your deposit once the car wasn't what was described.

Definitly sounds like it's your fault for not knowing better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6753264
Share on other sites

Long story....but basically I had to pay $1000 deposit on a 17,000 car and was told on the phone it was awesome when it turned up it was not as good as they made out but PHIL the idiot said if u don't buy this car ill keep your $1,000 and u own me a % toward the car so I would of ended up paying another $1,700 for nothing he used his car cakes bull talk and was a total dick!

LOL wut?

So instead of getting you're $1000 deposit back (which you were legally entitled to) you were contemplating paying another $1700 (which he can't legally make you do) but you decided to still buy the car (which you shouldn't have). Logic. SRS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6753800
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Why is this being advertised as a V-Spec? No Brembo brakes and FAST says that the VIN is for a non-V-Spec GT-R. I hope that it's a mistake and that they correct it.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281101986580?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D281101986580%26_rdc%3D1

:/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6836859
Share on other sites

Why is this being advertised as a V-Spec? No Brembo brakes and FAST says that the VIN is for a non-V-Spec GT-R. I hope that it's a mistake and that they correct it.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281101986580?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D281101986580%26_rdc%3D1

:/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6836861
Share on other sites

Yeah, I sent them a message on eBay asking if they were sure that it is a V-Spec. I got a phone call from them - they assert that it's a genuine V-Spec. The caller wasn't minded to go and check because 'their guy knows what he's on about because he's been doing this since 1971'.

Now, I know my V-Specs pretty well. That is not one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382255-ed-lees/#findComment-6836962
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...