Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

whereabouts u from

im in melb

only problem is Denton33 pm me earlier and said he was going to come down and get my brake pads and fc commander if it works on his newer model power fc

otherwise u can give me a call on 0423 351 754

but basically if ur outside of melb u might have to wait to c if this sale falls threw or he doesnt call me and i could cod it on monday

Hey Michael,

we're in luck.  Couch search proved successful, I can buy at $350.

Where do we go from here?

Adrian

  • 2 weeks later...

hand controller is still for sale

however $350 is the lowest i will sell it for

otherwise i rather just give it to my mechanics for a christmas present

If you've still got it, I'll take the hand controller for $300.

Adrian

hand controller is still for sale

however $350 is the lowest i will sell it for

otherwise i rather just give it to my mechanics for a christmas present

I was a confirmed buyer at $350 a month ago, but I didn't hear from you after you said Denton33 was coming to look at it. Do you want to sell it or not? As they say, a bird in the hand...

$300, cash sale, someone will pick it up in Melbourne for me. It doesn't get any easier. I guess it didn't work out with Denton33, but it will with me.

Adrian

sozman its hard man with the hand controller

i had a guy come on sat with $350 ready to buy it

however when we plugged it in the apexi logo came up and thats about all that happen

so it was wrong model

so if i send it ova to u and it wrong model wat then....

sozman its hard man with the hand controller

i had a guy come on sat with $350 ready to buy it

however when we plugged it in the apexi logo came up and thats about all that happen

so it was wrong model

so if i send it ova to u and it wrong model wat then....

Ahh, I see. I believe my FC is the late model one too, and that perhaps I need the X001, not the N001. The workshop that sold my FC originally can't be sure which one it is, I don't bloody know, so best not rush into anything I guess.

Initially I was prepared to take a bit of a punt if you dropped the price, but for $350 I'd prefer to make absolutely certain I'm buying the right thing.

Will research more and get back to you,

Adrian

sozman its hard man with the hand controller

i had a guy come on sat with $350 ready to buy it

however when we plugged it in the apexi logo came up and thats about all that happen

so it was wrong model

so if i send it ova to u and it wrong model wat then....

I see... I think I need the later X001, not the N001. I can't get a definite answer from the workshop that originally supplied the FC. Best not to rush I guess. Initially I was prepared to take a punt if the price dropped, but for $350 I'd prefer to know I'm buying the right controller.

Will research and get back to you.

Adrian

Hey Michael, i was speaking to u out the front of CREATD one time and you were telling me bout a place where i can buy some parts. It was some website, can u remember?

few more things for sale

apexi rsm with g sensor as new $350

Alpine CDA 7893R CD/MP3 Player (full specs can be found at alpine.com.au)

$550

Nismo Radiator chrome cap $60

Nismo Oil Cap Chrome $140

Nisom Petrol Cap Chrome $60

  • 3 weeks later...

Number Plates (INCTRL) VIC Plates

one slimline and one standard size

offers over $1000

Apexi Power FC commander Model No. 415-N001 for r33 gtst

as new condition with manual etc

$350

Apexi 60mm gauge holders * 2 $30each

Apexi AVC-R, RSM, AFC etc holder $30

Original R33 side indicators $20

Original R33 injecotors * 6 $80

Race Brakes brake pads for r33 fronts as new only used for 200k's $70

Alpine 7893R 60*4 cd/mp3 player as in pic $550 as new

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...