Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i didnt get the foot pedal, dont really need it as mine came with the adjuster on the torch itself. obviously can only use it on 4T setting though which i never really used much before this machine

The correct term is actually called walking the ceramic which is pretty tricky to learn but once u have the technique its a piece of piss im a pressure welder by trade but have had heaps of experience in the food industry purge welding stainless steel tube installing steam pipes on boilers etc your pipe fitting is quite neat mate what u using to cut the pipe? me='BOOZTJUNKEY' timestamp='1320962225' post='6104531']

You could also try the "walking the cup " style of welding to help with consistency ;-)

For stuf like intakes and cooler pipes I only do a nice hot fuse but try and roll the pipe so I get in one run ...

It's only a fuse weld but is still a full weld and plenty strong enough for cooler pipes and intakes!

As for going back over the welds I use to think it was cheating also lol but it's not that uncommon of a practice In the last year I have heard heaps of ppl say that's what they do hahaha

Although if it was structual I would do a nice hot root run first make sure u have peno first then go over it if need be

If you are only welding exhausts and light stuff the duty cycle wont really be too much of a drama and if u r learning somethin cheap to get ya hand in and a few tips from somebody who can weld will be fine mate :-)

So a cheap no-name Arc welder with a decent duty cycle, then add a TIG attachment would be okay for small jobs? (Exhaust repair, custom plenum etc)

Running over welds is actually not good practice because putting too much heat into your material will create imbrittlement which causes the grain of the material to shrink and basically crystalize and in extreme conditions will crack right beside the weld

I agree but for things that won't need to work that hard like cooler piping and intakes it will be fine. for doing manifolds and plenums a hot nice weld is essential or it will crack distortion is the biggest problem leaning to controll that can be tricky

yeah agreed i think it will be a while before i try any manifolds

so i have done a little more alloy work no as well made a pencil holder that i have on my desk now :P

although its not Great what so ever im starting to get the nack of alloy welding

its quite different to stainless steel

i have now made ANOTHER set of pig pipes

and also working on a couple more intakes

im waiting for my bender to come in though before i do inter cooler piping as i want to get more rounded corners

post-63394-0-07747300-1321228844_thumb.jpg

not a great shot but they did come out just like the guy wanted

sounded good too :)

ok so a update

Got my bender last night and it is somewhat

TERRIBLE it does not bend as much as it deforms it i will try to upload some photo's tonight

form what i have heard one of the the tricks is fill the tube with sand before you bend your work

can anyone shed any light on this ( maybe someone that has also just bought a bender thinking you can bend things only to find that you cant :) )

and next project will be inter cooler piping for the everyday car going to work on making a predator style sort of set up

Also attempting to make a roll cage this weekend for a mates drift car BUT this bender is making me have second thoughts

i might end up buying a main hoop and doing the rest

it sure will be a packed full weekend

please dont use a bottle jack pipe bender on a roll cage.

need to use a bender with proper dies that follow the bend - like what the dude from engineered to slide

also, what sized tungsten are you using? looks like a 2.4? if you want a finer weld then get the collet etc for a 1.6 tungsten

don't worry craved i have VERY QUICKLY found that just like welding there is somewhat of an art on bending also

i think what i am most likely going to do is get a guy to do my main hoop as explained in my above post

and on the way home im going to go get some sand and give it a crack i will post pics up of everything tonight

Edited by Abe2

Sand is a pain in the ass you will never get a nice bend will still flatten out a little and you will struggle to get more then 35 degrees with out pipe damage. Buy round donuts can get any angle you want then or a proper bender one that rolles the pipe not crushes and hope it turns out for the best im not trying to be a rude basted I'm just telling you my experiences

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...