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Ok, this is my first post (at least in a long time...) I just bought a 1998 GTT 4 door MT a couple weeks ago and while changing my steering wheel to a Nardi with an HKB hub, suddenly the car wouldn't start. I get lots of fuel, but apparently no spark. I had an AT ECU from the previous owner. He got it to fix what his mechanic says was a bad ECU. The original MT ECU has a "re-manufactured by Nissan" sticker on it already and the AT one doesn't have anything. I swapped to the AT ECU, and the car started right up. now after taking it to get some fuel in the tank, I took it for a rip to finally get a feel for the car, and on the highway, it suddenly bogged and then backfired a couple of times as loud as a cannon!

I've read that an AT ECU will run the engine fine, but the TSC and SLIP lights will stay permanently on. So any ideas what might be causing this? FIY, the car has an HKS (I think) catback and a Nismo fuel pump and that's it for any sort of performance mods.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

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ok, so an update on this to hopefully get some advice... I took the car for a rip with the AT ECU, and after it got up to operating temp and playing moderately hard on the highway, it suddenly bogged out and them backfired like a cannon twice. Then I tried limping it home keeping the RPM down around 2500 and it bogged and backfired two more times.

One of my buddies noticed that the Cam angle sensor is turned almost all the way anti-clockwise but it looks like the factory had it MUCH further back (marks on the bolt sliders from the bolt washers). I'm wondering if this has something to do with the problem. I did a self diagnostic with the CONSULT plug on both the AT ECU and the MT ECU. The AT only came up with code 54 (AT controller malfunction) and the MT one I let idle and revved a bit until it died and did the self diagnostic and it came up with code 55( all good). this almost leads me to believe that either A) the ECU can't tell me it's screwed, B) there's a problem with the coils and/or harness or C) the CAS is the culprit, but I don't have a timing light to get it back to the right spot.

Any help on this would be a HUGE help.

Cheers

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Use a timing light to set base timing,

Can u borrow a mates ecu to try?

When it plays up does it rev over 2500rpm (if not its going into limp mode from either a bad sensor or afm etc or the ecu)

Can be a little tricky to diagnose unless u have a car to borrow parts from.

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