Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've done a lot of research recently on what I'd need to run my M35 Stagea on E85. I'm looking at upgrading my fuel system knowing it's overkill for the standard turbo, and knowing I'll be upgrading to a highflow or something down the track.

The simple answer is 1000cc injectors and a 255lph+ fuel pump.

Ok so that's that out of the way. I've already got a Deatschwerks 300lph pump to fit, and I'm looking at ordering some ID1000 injectors from PHR, an SAU sponsor who gave me a great price. Job sorted.

But reading through the spec sheet for the ID1000s the other day, it had me thinking (bearing in mind I'm still trying to learn all of this)...

Flow rate is 1015cc/min @ 3.0 Bar (43.5 psi). So lets assume it'll be around that for 100% duty.

6 injectors would therefore require 6090cc/min at 100% duty. That's near enough to 6.09L/min, which works out to 365.4L/hour. But they wouldn't be at 100% duty in theory, they'd want to be at 80-90% depending on the tuner. 90% is 328.86 lph.

According to Deatschwerks, the most their pump will flow is 325lph @ 40PSI. Which isn't enough to feed the ID1000s. But heaps of people are doing just this, and it's working fine.

I also found other calculators online, such as http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/jmiller/finject1.htm, which is more concerned about your horsepower and aspiration.

So I guess the question is, if you really want to be a geek and calculate your fuel requirements down to the last cc, how do you do it? What formulas do you use? Or am I on the right track?

Because if I'm on the right track, that'd make me think that you'd want twin pumps to properly feed 6 x ID1000s E85 at 85%+ duty cycle?

If you want to be as accurate as possible, you should start with energy density of the fuel you're going to use, that make a plausible estimation of BSFC in your engine and HP you want your engine to produce. Energy density is rarely used though, you can got to it only if you're really into physics and like calculating stuff. If you don't want to dive this deep, go straight to BSFC [brake specific fuel consuption]. This value varies from engine to engine, and it's not constant in all operating modes either - it changes with load and RPM.

I'll start calculations in imperial units, 'cause imperial figures are easier to find, also garrett comp maps are in lb/min.

I'll be conservative and assume E85 to have BSFC of 0.77 lb/(hp*hour). Now let's say you want 500 flywheel HP. From this you can see that you need 0.77 *500 = 385 lb of E85 in order to make 500hp for an hour or 6.42 lb/min = 2.913 kg/min. Now assuming 6 cylinders with a single injector per cylinder you need to have injectors capable of at least 486 g/min of E85. To convert this to cc/min, you have to divide by fuel specific gravity at certain temperature, I'll use 810 g/litre, this gives roughly 600cc/min injector, and then by maximum injector duty cycle, say, 85%, which results in 705cc/min injector.

For fuel pump requirements do it backwards: 600 cc/min * 6 injectors * 60 min = 216 litre/hour to make 500hp or 705 cc/min * 6 injectors * 60 min = 254 litre/hour to use full injector capacity. Notice that this figure isn't enough to choose a pump yet, we'll add important info below.

Now air requirements. Full power lean AFR for E85 is roughly 8.5:1, meaning you need 8.5 parts of air to burn each part of E85. You remember that you need 6.42 lb/min of E85 to make 500 hp, now multiply this 8.5 by 6.42 lb/min of E85 = 54.57 lb/min of air. GTX3076R provides necessary airflow at as low as ~14psi, but your engine won't consume this much air at this pressure, calcs show that 22-23 psi boost is required to make your engine swallow it (at 7000rpm assuming 102% VE and Tamb 30 deg.C).

Now, knowing your required boost pressure and turbo you'll be using, you're ready to go back to fuel pump selection. All you now have to do is to add maximum boost pressure to base fuel pressure (fixed by FPR used), IDK what's the base presure level on VQ25DET, 43 psi I should think? Then it's 43 + 23 = 66 psi. Therefore you need a pump that provides at least 216 litre/min @66 psi or 4.5 bar.

That's it I guess, I tried to keep it compact, easy and error-free, but if someone notices an error in calculations, please by all means feel free to point it out or correct it asap to avoid confusion.

^ Thats the theory, or you could just buy another pump. lol. Maths was never my strong point.

Are you sure you wont need more fuel flow down the track? :whistling: These VQ's seem to love using the stuff.

Sure, you can use double pump arrangement, may end up cheaper, in that case you just choose a pump that provides half the necessary amount of fuel, but at the same max pressure as calculated. Downsides could be more current draw, twice as much wires and relays, more pump noise, not enough space inside the tank or pump cradle, and you'll have to make some clever arrangement for the fuel lines.

Thats the main issue anyway. I was maxing the fuel lines running a 33 GTR Tomei pump as the M35 plastic pump cradle only has a 3mm fuel outlet. Two walbro's shouln't draw any more current than one Deatschwerks pump.

I ended up making a new cradle for mine with twin -6 teflon lines. They do sound like they are starving a bit when i'm at 1/4 tank and I go around corners. I have never seen the AFR's affected though, possibly due to the way the stock rails are designed.

post-63525-0-10608500-1322609071_thumb.jpg

Thanks Petros. Theory is great. I'll play with it some more, but it's good to have the formula.

Scotty, I have thought about two pumps, but I just don't need them (yet).

I'd already worked out what I was doing before I started the thread, but I was curious about the maths behind it, especially when I saw maths that didn't add up to me. Petros has cleared that up for me, so thanks! :thumbsup:

You're welcome. Any additional questions - feel free to ask.

I don't know what power you're after, but based on the above calculations a package consisting of injector dynamics ID725 and a DW300 series/Aeromotive 340 stealth/Jay racing PT342 pump [the three I believe are identical] should be sufficient to fuel 500bhp @ 23 psi as per calculations above.

Let's check DW301 pump specsheet: at 66 psi it delivers 260-265 litres/hour at 13.5 volts and current draw of 12.3-12.4 amps, which is more than required 216l/h and gives a good safety margin.

Aeromotive 11142 is roughly the same, without magnification of this tiny graph I can't see squat, but enlarged graph shows performance similar to DW301 pump, also at 13.5 volts. Too bad there is to current draw graph

11140-42_FlowChart.jpg

Now Jay racing claims their pump to be higher flowing then the other two, this graph is good because it has some testing details on it

Jay%20Racing%20Pro%20Series%20PT342%20vs%20Walbro%20GSS342%20%28255HP%29.jpg

And this graph is good because it's supposed to show the difference between their pump and DW301 pump

Jay%20Racing%20PT342%20vs%20Walbro%20GSS342%20%28255HP%29%20vs%20Deatschwerks%20DW300.jpg

but their data for DW301 flow does not match DW's own data. Anyway, if this graph shows the truth, JR PT342 flows roughly 280-285 litres/hour @ 13.8 volts and draws ~14 amps.

Or you can always use twin walbro arrangement (that twin pump cradle of Scotty's is beautiful by the way, terrific job, very compact and tidy), as you can see, two walbros flow 410-420 l/hour at 13.8 volts, which imo is a massive overkill, and draw ~9x2=18 amps.

Just a thought - you can actually do it backwards and calculate maximum power for a given fuel pump operating @ 13.5v and base fuel pressure.

Let's use DW pump as a reference and 43 psi base pressure. Assume E85 fuel and 10lph safety margin.

E85 BSFC 0.77 lb/(hp*hr) = approx. 469 g/(kW*hr)

469 g/(kW*hr) / 810g/litre = 0.579 litre/(kW*hr)

Now we'll just make a table of boost pressures and respective power levels that are achievable by DW301 pump. Remember, this is for 43 psi base pressure, 13.5v pump power supply and 10 lph safety margin.

7 psi boost - 50 psi fuel pressure - 11.6 amps - [295 - 10 safety margin = 285 l/hr] - 285/0.579 = 492 flywheel kW = 660 flywheel hp

12 psi - 55 psi - 11.7 amps - [285-10=275] l/hr - 475 kW = 636 hp

17 psi - 60 psi - 11.9 amps - [275-10=265] l/hr - 458 kW = 613 hp

22 psi - 65 psi - 12.2 amps - [262-10=252] l/hr - 435 kW = 583 hp

27 psi - 70 psi - 12.5 amps - [250-10=240] l/hr - 414 kW = 555 hp

32 psi - 75 psi - 12.9 amps - [240-10=230] l/hr - 397 kW = 532 hp

37 psi - 80 psi - 13.2 amps - [230-10=220] l/hr - 380 kW = 509 hp

42 psi - 85 psi - 13.5 amps - [217-10=207] l/hr - 358 kW = 479 hp

That'll do I think. 42psi is insane boost already, and at this boost level a single DW301will supply enough E85 to make 479fwhp.

Edited by Legionnaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...