Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is that the same box that you get when you order foxtel digital, if it is message me ill take it off your hands pending i can get foxtel to hook it up. as i have the normal foxel now.

i spoke to my mate that works for foxtell and he told me you ant use other foxtell boxes casue foxtell never sold them indevidually unless it was satelite digital.

sorry man cant buy it off you. he just organised to get my digital installed tomorrow.

Perhaps the following will help in the sale of this decoder:

Satellite television from Optus/Austar/Foxtel has ALWAYS BEEN DIGITAL. That's why it's called Digital Video Broadcast. The 'Digital' tag is applied because people already nderstand the concept of digital set top boxes and having access to different angles at the footy etc....

With satellite tv, it is a total FARCE! The different angles are actually broadcast simultaneously as seperate channels so when you change angles you're really just changing the station you're watching.

Sorry for the sat tv lecture but this should stop the bs'ing that i keep hearing about 'digital' this and 'digital' that.

Adrian

At the end of the day, what can you do with it, and how do you use it if you don't have foxtel (ie what do you have to do to use it in your house, anything you have to tell foxtel, ie "I already have a box, can you hook me up?"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...