Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was driving home and the car stopped. lost power to the dash and windows and the engine wont crank over. fuses are ok, will check realys. but i still got power to interior lights and the electric boot and remote central locking still works. doesnt have an immobiliser fitted. can somebody please guide me in the right direction so i can start ripping shit out for testing. i just dont know where those wires would be

Edited by markdem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385313-lost-power-to-dashwindows/
Share on other sites

Damn, had this problem in my gtr today.

Dash went, and windows won't wind.

Car still runs.

Found a blown fuse.

Replaced and keeps blowing.

Thought you might offer some insight.

Congratulations on your fix.

Can anyone help with mine?

Extra symptom, when you replace the fuse, the torque split gauge goes straight up and over max.

im not familiar with 32 gtrs or atessa systems in general. is it possible that the torque split device is the cause? if not, theres really not much you can do besides making sure the wires are in good condition and start poking shit with a multimeter. sorry i cant be more of a help man. good luck

  • 5 weeks later...

Got the same problem on my mates 32 - no luck yet. It also has a torque split controller and only begun doing this after he climbed an embankment recently. Everything seems to be in tact have had it on the hoist and checked "everything".

Loses power to windows, rev tacho and the front torque gauge goes spastic to maximum

Happens when he goes over a bump. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

Got the same problem on my mates 32 - no luck yet. It also has a torque split controller and only begun doing this after he climbed an embankment recently. Everything seems to be in tact have had it on the hoist and checked "everything".

Loses power to windows, rev tacho and the front torque gauge goes spastic to maximum

Happens when he goes over a bump. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

id be double checking the wiring to the gearbox.

that is exactly what mine was doing.

recheck the connections at the back of the gearbox(reverse swith and transfer case wiring).

good luck mate.

id be double checking the wiring to the gearbox.

that is exactly what mine was doing.

recheck the connections at the back of the gearbox(reverse swith and transfer case wiring).

good luck mate.

thanks mate, checked all that seems to be a-ok - still no solution as of yet. might get him to check his battery terminals as its been relocated to theboot and may have come loose after the collision

thanks for your help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...