Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my R34 skyline.

Copyband paste into browser for full add. with pics.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1998-11784063?cr=0&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,Max~1&silo=Stock&sort=default&eapi=2&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282&distance=25&find=wcd331|CarAll

This is a late 1998 Skyline has had alot of work done over the years but all done to pass roadworthy and last the test of time. Selling the car as i have just brought a house and plans have changed.

Body is straight with no accidents. RACV check welcome.

Has around 125xxxk on the clock and runs great. Always been serviced every 5000k with top Syntheic oil.

Proven over 260kw at the wheels with digital rev gauge and work done and tuned by chasers motors.All work done valued at aprox $15000. In the right hands can be a nice and powerful street car.

Has full fitted 2-way viper alarm kit that will indicate to the remote if the car is being tampered with. Valued at $500

At $21000 comes with all mods inc Fitted Alpine stereo with all speakers and 2 x 12inch R type subs. All fitted by the team at Autobarn. Stereo valued at $3000.

First to see will Buy. Can organise to look at the car in Highpoint or Melton as constantly between locations. Offers are welcome Price is negotiable.

As i can not have my mobile on me at work feel free to sms me between 9 and 6 monday till friday calls are welcome at all other times after 6pm or anytime on weekends.

Please no test Pilots as dont have much spare time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385402-r34-gt-t-260rwkw/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...