Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of a clear out of parts I no longer need, reasonable offers considered. I will add more as I remember.

1. Bosch 044

Limited use, two available. Was going to run twin pumps but going with a large single instead.

100each

2. HKS DB Chrono Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges

Include all cables, control unit and sensors. Pricey buggers no longer in production. Very slim profile (can easily be double sided taped anywhere on the dash). Have peak recall, replay and all that jazz refer here for full description:

http://www.nengun.com/hks/db-meter-chrono

300 for the pair

3. Surge Tank

Includes 6AN hose tail fittings. Bottom outlet is -10AN.

120ono

fuelsys-1.jpg

4. Optima Yellow Top Battery

Limited use. Presents as new. Terminals included.

330ono

5. RB26 Long Motor

Standard rb26 head

Arias forged pistons, N1 oil pump

Std bearings etc

Completely rebuilt ~10k km's ago, leakdown was in the 18-22% range when last checked. This motor didn't have any piston slap when cold but did use a reasonable amount of oil (built with generous tolerance's by previous owner).

Ideally suit rebuild/freshen up.

Does NOT include cam covers, sump, plenum, balancer or any ancillaries.

1500

6. TIAL 50mm BOV

Black, un-marked. As new

200ono

TIAL%20BOV.jpg

7. WEDS TC005 17 x 9.5 +30 forged

Ultra-light (7.3'ish kg per corner) wheel with concave face. Easily clear 355mm brakes as pictured.

1750

PC311826.jpg

255_03.jpg

8. Greddy Oil Cap

Blue.

100ono

GReddy-Oil-Cap-Blue-300.jpg

Will post anywhere in Aus, buyer pays shipping.

PM or email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385541-fs-weds-tc005-17-x-95-30-forged/
Share on other sites

044 internal or external and 50mm bov plumb back or not?

BOV isn't plumb back.

As the guys above said, 044 can be run in tank or external but these two are spoken for.

  • 2 weeks later...

No probs Rob.

Had a few queries on cost to ship the wheels, freight to most area's is ~120 using TNT road. Obviously a lot more if you live in the middle of no where!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...