Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

Just after some thoughts on a random beeping I'm getting from behind/under the steering wheel.

I walked out to the car, put some stuff in the boot then went to the front to get in and there was no electrics at all. Popped the bonnet and found that the earth lead to the battery was loose, cleaned it out and out it back on. As soon as I did that low and behold the electrics came on, and this beeping noise from under the dash.

All my trip computers settings, clock etc have reset. When I start the car the beeping stops when the ignition is on, and then, about 5 seconds after it's started Theres one longer

beep and all seems normal.

The beeping is three short beeps at 3 second intervals. It keeps going even if the car is locked...

Any ideas?

Cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385809-random-beeping-from-m35/
Share on other sites

Battery is supposedly only 3-4 months old. And if it's anything to go by the volt meter is saying 14v, exactly where it has been since I bought it. Hmm

Apologies for the mistakes, on the trusty iPhone in the car!

Battery is supposedly only 3-4 months old. And if it's anything to go by the volt meter is saying 14v, exactly where it has been since I bought it. Hmm

Apologies for the mistakes, on the trusty iPhone in the car!

Isn't the volt meter showing alternator output to the battery?

If the earth is dodgy it will be charging the battery less effectively than the meter is showing.

Just thinking out loud, i've never really looked to verify.

the volt meter shows the battery voltage, when its being charged its around 13.9-14.4v (or something like that)

check when the engine isnt running, if its around 12v then start the car and see how low it drops.

also check earth wires there behind the drivers kick panel. if the alarm installer used wiring there, they may have inadvertantly removed something

Thanks for the input guys, I'll not the volts before and just after start in a sec.

I'll have to get in and have a look at what is actually making the beeping when I get back to Sydney, driving down from tamworth today so fingers crossed it causes me no issues on the way down.

On another note are there any stagea cruises happening in the next 3 weeks?

Made it back to Sydney without turning the car off :P

Anyway I checked the terminals again on the battery, turns out they were both loose, so i took them off and gave them a bit of a scrub with a wire brush put them back on and all seems fine *touches some wood*

Starts as normal, and there's no beeping any more.

Cheers

Nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
×
×
  • Create New...