Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

Just after some thoughts on a random beeping I'm getting from behind/under the steering wheel.

I walked out to the car, put some stuff in the boot then went to the front to get in and there was no electrics at all. Popped the bonnet and found that the earth lead to the battery was loose, cleaned it out and out it back on. As soon as I did that low and behold the electrics came on, and this beeping noise from under the dash.

All my trip computers settings, clock etc have reset. When I start the car the beeping stops when the ignition is on, and then, about 5 seconds after it's started Theres one longer

beep and all seems normal.

The beeping is three short beeps at 3 second intervals. It keeps going even if the car is locked...

Any ideas?

Cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385809-random-beeping-from-m35/
Share on other sites

Battery is supposedly only 3-4 months old. And if it's anything to go by the volt meter is saying 14v, exactly where it has been since I bought it. Hmm

Apologies for the mistakes, on the trusty iPhone in the car!

Battery is supposedly only 3-4 months old. And if it's anything to go by the volt meter is saying 14v, exactly where it has been since I bought it. Hmm

Apologies for the mistakes, on the trusty iPhone in the car!

Isn't the volt meter showing alternator output to the battery?

If the earth is dodgy it will be charging the battery less effectively than the meter is showing.

Just thinking out loud, i've never really looked to verify.

the volt meter shows the battery voltage, when its being charged its around 13.9-14.4v (or something like that)

check when the engine isnt running, if its around 12v then start the car and see how low it drops.

also check earth wires there behind the drivers kick panel. if the alarm installer used wiring there, they may have inadvertantly removed something

Thanks for the input guys, I'll not the volts before and just after start in a sec.

I'll have to get in and have a look at what is actually making the beeping when I get back to Sydney, driving down from tamworth today so fingers crossed it causes me no issues on the way down.

On another note are there any stagea cruises happening in the next 3 weeks?

Made it back to Sydney without turning the car off :P

Anyway I checked the terminals again on the battery, turns out they were both loose, so i took them off and gave them a bit of a scrub with a wire brush put them back on and all seems fine *touches some wood*

Starts as normal, and there's no beeping any more.

Cheers

Nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...