Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Selling an upgrade turbo charger for any RB25. Basically we've taken a R34GTT stock nissan housings (which are larger than R33 GTST) and put a Garrett TA34 core in it. The Garrett centre is a dual ball bearing core turbo with steel wheels. The housings have been machined to suit the wheels. The turbo has been tested on a car and is working 100%. This turbo has done about 50km on an RB20, but was just a little bit lazy to come on boost at about 4,000rpm and wasn't what we wanted on this car. But an RB25 would be perfectly suited to this turbo.

The work was performed by Rotomaster, Somerton VIC. I will post the turbo interstate - please ask for a shipping quote.

PRO's

The turbo will bolt to your stock manifold.

Retains Nissan 5 bolt dump pipe.

Your standard wastegate actuator will fit.

Turbo still looks stock

Turbo has warranty, ending in Aug 2012.

CON's

You have to make custom oil and water lines.

Pickup from Bayswater, VIC

Price is $1760.00 - which is trade price. This is what we paid for it.

post-6928-0-34337300-1324262604_thumb.jpg

post-6928-0-62094300-1324262743_thumb.jpg

post-6928-0-98178600-1324262778_thumb.jpg

how many KW did it make on the rb20?

It was never fully tuned on the RB20, as the injectors were also maxing out. We could only set the boost at 12PSI max before injectors were an issue, so it was made safe then road tested and wasn't what we were after.

im after a turbo for my NEO 25, I spose this would be quite lagy as not a good match?

Though how much of a hassle cost wise are cuton oil and water lines?

Actually I would expect it to be a pretty good match for a Neo RB25 as it's roughly 20% bigger wheels than OEM using the OEM housings. Also it all bolts directly back on. Plus the added benefit of steel wheels = no more 12PSI limit, not to mention ball bearing vs plain bearing.

I think I did lines for around $270 using speedflow fittings, teflon braided -4 oil line and pushlock water hose. That's 4x lines and 2x fittings into the block.

So would this be expected to push similar figures to what a standard r34 hi flow would? 250-270rwkw

Yep - that would be the figure I would expect too. 280rwkw seems to be all most of the return flow intercoolers will push anyway, so there is no point getting a bigger turbo than this, as you will still end up with 270ish.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...