Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

QUOTE=strutto]Sedans...

Not 4 doors...

:P

I always call it a 4 Door....that way I can be reasonably sure that the average "ordinary Skyline" drivers can work out what the difference is :wassup:

only pic I've got handy at the moment

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Black%20M%20Bar2%20(1).jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38630-4-door-owners/#findComment-782697
Share on other sites

Work in Belmont live down Rockingham way.

Don't know exactly how many Impul's were built but I think it was more than 100.

How much did I pay hey.....hmmmm Let's just say I don't think the dealer I bought it from knew (and neither did I when I bought it) how rare they are over here. From what I know Matt and I are the only 2 R33R's on SAU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38630-4-door-owners/#findComment-783989
Share on other sites

I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan

Pics

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...2125#post772125

Outside:

GTR front end including bonnet

R32 GTR wheels and brakes with lots of rubber, with callipers painted black and gold

Lowered 1.5 inches

Dark tinting

Inside

GTR dash and display i.e gauges are GTR set up with NISMO 260km/h speedo

Pioneer head deck, with Alpine speakers

Engine

Full 3inch exhaust

Upgrade R33 turbo

GTR fuel pump

FMIC

Boost controller

GTR inlet manifold (This was a bitch of a job!!, but well worth it)

Running 1 bar, but could run a lot more with better turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38630-4-door-owners/#findComment-784243
Share on other sites

4 doors = GTS-t with extra practicality! plus you always get a wave from other 4dr drivers

all the 'lines i test drove were 4 doors. come to think about it, i've never been in a 2 door skyline!

very tidy spooks :)

mine's fairly std with an R34GTT rear wing & turbo, apexi filter & a 3inch turbo back exhaust. oh & some fugly r33 rims

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38630-4-door-owners/#findComment-784386
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...