Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just a breif introduction of myself

i am 16 im also on my L's i plan to buy a R32 or R33 GTS when i can get the money together or keep saving untill i can buy a R33 GTR possibly?

Maybe someone can help me in the right direction as to which way to go with skylines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/
Share on other sites

Hey just a breif introduction of myself

i am 16 im also on my L's i plan to buy a R32 or R33 GTS when i can get the money together or keep saving untill i can buy a R33 GTR possibly?

Maybe someone can help me in the right direction as to which way to go with skylines?

Are you seriously considering buying a GTR on your L's??! Your only 16 mate, you still got 4 years until you can drive those...

Buy any NA and wait until your on your fulls. Don't be one of those idiots who drive a turbo on their p's, it's just not worth it... (unless exempted)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/#findComment-6162750
Share on other sites

Sorry i didnt explain my self properly i already have my own car and no its not a skyline my question was should i buy a GTS now? or save and buy a GTR later (when im on my opens)

Oh, another question do u see many skylines being on the road in 4 years time? is rust a problem?

E: Whats the depreation rate of the R34 GTR?

Edited by ChaosReaper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/#findComment-6163653
Share on other sites

Buy a R31.

Cheap, fun and you can cut your teeth upgrading them/working on them without worrying that you are going to make an expensive f**k up. Plus, they look great!

x2. Plus most p platers will bang the car up at some stage, its good to know you arent driving a gtr when you slap the front up a gutter! lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/#findComment-6164459
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Welcome.

some good advice above. I was in your boat a few years ago, the night was young and i was full of optimism....etc.

I personally wouldn't bother with an NA skyline or any overstated import for my P's. They are WAAAAYY overpriced, and a police magnet.

Also these cars are getting old so rust and general misuse and neglect is becoming more prominent on most of the GTS's and GTST's as every second p plater has them. Even some 32/33 GTR's arnt in too good nick anymore.

Buy a cheap-ish car, dont mod it (unless you HAVE to, and then leave it to basics), bomb around for 3/4 years, save your pennies then buy a decent BNR33/32 or whatever tickles your fancy when you get on your opens

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/#findComment-6172315
Share on other sites

I tend to agree with the post so far.

I rekon wait unless your 100% in love with the GTS.

Other wise It might feel like you were driving a honda with no V-TEC or a BMW 135i with an M1 bodykit?

End of the day - do what you feel is best. But reliability is actually something you want on your P's (so in other words mum was right)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386365-youngin-here/#findComment-6174102
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...